The districts on the west bank of the Nile are administered by the Giza governorate, which is separate from that of Cairo, though transport and utilities are effectively integrated. If you cross over to the west bank of the Nile from Zamalek, you arrive at Mohandiseen, laid out during the 1960s to house Egypt’s new technocrats. Medinat Mohandiseen (“Engineers’ City”), as the suburb was initially called, responded to an influx of business and media folk during the Sadat era by shortening its name and trying to be more American in style. Its main axis, Arab League Street (Sharia Gameat al-Dowal al-Arabiya) is bisected by palms and shrubbery for its three-kilometre length, and on a clear day (admittedly a rare occurrence in Cairo), you can look down it and see the Giza Pyramids, to which it is aligned.

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