With your own transport, ČESKÁ KAMENICE (Böhmisch Kamnitz), 18km east of Děčín on route 13 (or forty minutes by train), makes a great alternative base for exploring České Švýcarsko. For a start, it's a lot more pleasant to rest up in than Děčín, with its interesting blend of nineteenth-century Habsburg edifices, the odd wooden folk building and a splendid Baroque pilgrimage chapel. Accommodation is rather limited until the hotel on the main square reopens; meanwhile Pension Kamenice (412 584 290, jveidenthaler@seznam.cz; Kč500-1000), on náměstí 28 ijna east of centre, is a good choice, with clean en-suite rooms, satellite TV and a secure car park. The tourist office (May– Sept Mon– Fri 9am–5pm, Sat 9am–1pm; Oct– April Mon– Fri 9am–4pm, Sat 9–11am; 412 582 600, www.ceskakamenice.cz) is on the main square, náměstí Míru, and you'll also find plenty of restaurants and pubs around here.

Five kilometres east of Česká Kamenice, on the other side of Kamenický Šenov, is another, much rarer geological phenomenon: the Panská skála (Herrnhausfelsen), a series of polygonal basalt columns that look like a miniature Giant's Causeway minus the sea. These are the result of a massive subterranean explosion millions of years ago, during which molten basalt was spewed out onto the surface and cooled into what are, essentially, crystals. They make a strange, supernatural sight in this unassuming rolling countryside, but are too small to be really awe-inspiring. Unlike Northern Ireland's major tourist attraction, the Panská skála are easily missed, even though they're only 500m south of route 13; look for the village of Pracheň and ask the bus driver to tell you when to get out.

Halfway between Děčín and Česká Kamenice, and easily reached from either by train, is BENEŠOV NAD PLOUČNICÍ, a pretty little town characterized by its two connected zámky (April & Oct Wed– Sun 9am–4pm; May– Sept Tues– Sun 9am–6pm; 120Kč). The lower one is a neo-Gothic hunting lodge with meticulously restored interiors (restored after a fire in 1968); the upper one boasts Renaissance ceilings and an offbeat collection of Japanese and Chinese art. There is ample accommodation, though scout around before resorting to the rather dour Jelen (412 586 223; under Kč1000), on the attractive main square; a safer bet, particularly for a longer stay, is one of the two basic self-service apartments at no. 6 on the square (412 586 262; Kč500-1000) – look for the "Apartma" sign. The nearest campsite, Slunce (mid-May to mid-Sept), is in the village of Žandov, 10km southeast of Benešov, on the road to Česká Lípa (and 2km north of the train station Police-Žandov on the Benešov– Česká Lípa railway line).