Hotter than an oven and crisscrossed by anonymous highways, there can't be a more tourist-unfriendly capital than MANAGUA. Less a city in the European sense than a conglomeration of neighbourhoods and commercial districts, Managua offers few sights or cultural experiences of the type you can have in other Central American cities – in fact, most visitors are so disturbed by the lack of street names or any real centre to the city that they get out as fast as they can. Being a tourist in Managua does require some tenacity, but there are things to enjoy, and as Nicaragua's largest city and home to a quarter of its population, the city occupies a key position in the nation's economy and psyche.

Set on the southern shore of Lago de Managua, the city is low-lying and swampy, the flatness of its setting relieved only by the few eroded volcanoes and volcanic craters a few kilometres inland. It's also home to Nicaragua's few national museums and cultural organizations, most of them in the old ruined centre, whose historic cathedral is worth visiting, along with the Palacio Nacional, a museum of Nicaragua's culture and the home of its national library. Still, the reality is that there are few sights of interest, though the good news is that most of the city's modest attractions can be found within a few blocks of each other – an advantage in the draining heat.

Meanwhile, attempts are being made to establish a new commercial centre in the south along the Carretera a Masaya, just over the hill of Laguna de Tiscapa. A new Metrocentro shopping centre has opened here, along with hotels, restaurants, bars and cinemas, while the nearby district of Altamira boasts an increasing number of elegant restaurants and cafés serving tourists and the city's smart set. Another feature of post-earthquake Managua is the proliferation of centros comerciales, mostly low-slung North American– style shopping malls, with banks, supermarkets and secure parking.

Even if the city's tourist sights have been given a lick of paint (for the most part paid for by the Dutch, Austrian or Chinese governments), the majority of Managuans are still very poor. This begs a mention only because street crime is on the rise, and Managua has developed a reputation as a dangerous city. While Nicaragua remains one of the safest destinations in Central America, gang warfare is an increasing problem in Managua and certain parts of the city (Villa Revolución for example) are stamping grounds for pandillas, young thugs who won't think twice about robbing you, foreigner or local. While it's unlikely you'd be hanging around these areas anyway, tourists have also recently been robbed in broad daylight in barrio Martha Quezada so be on your guard. If you're alone it's advisable to take a taxi after dark rather than walking, even for short distances. Be careful also if travelling by private car or taxi on the Carretera Norte; it's advisable to keep your windows rolled up and doors locked.