For a brief but brilliant period (1238–1376), the walled city of SUKHOTHAI presided as the capital of Thailand, creating the legacy of a unified nation of Thai peoples and a phenomenal artistic heritage. Now an impressive assembly of elegant ruins, the Old City, 58km northwest of Phitsanulok, has been preserved as Sukhothai Historical Park and is one of Thailand's most visited ancient sites.

There are only a few accommodation options near the historical park, and not many other facilities, so most travellers stay in so-called NEW SUKHOTHAI, a modern market town 12km to the east, which has good travel links with the Old City and is also better for restaurants and long-distance bus connections. Straddling the Yom River, it's a small, friendly town, used to seeing tourists but by no means overrun with them. The new town also makes a peaceful and convenient base for visiting Ramkhamhaeng National Park, as well as the outlying ruins of Si Satchanalai and Kamphaeng Phet.

Sukhothai Historical Park is the most famous place in Thailand to celebrate Loy Krathong, the festival of light, and the ruins are the focus of a spectacular festival held over nine nights around the full moon of the twelfth lunar month (Oct/Nov). Not only are the pond surfaces of the Old City aglow with candles, but the ruins are wreathed in lights and illuminated during a nightly son et lumière performance at Wat Mahathat, and there are firework displays at nearby Wat Trapang Ngoen, plus lots of parades, concerts and street-theatre shows; see the colour section for more on Loy Krathong. All accommodation gets packed out during the festival, so book in advance unless you're willing to sleep sardine-style on a guest-house floor.