The nucleus of the southern coast is the port of Guayaquil, Ecuador's biggest city and economic powerhouse, handling most of the country's imports and exports. Traditionally considered loud, frenetic, dirty and dangerous, Guayaquil is in reality much less overwhelming and intimidating than its reputation bears out and its upbeat urban tempo makes an exciting change of pace from rural Ecuador.

South of Guayaquil, the coastal highway slices its way to Machala, the provincial capital of El Oro province. Famous as the "banana capital" of Ecuador, Machala is low on sights and ambience, but handy as a staging post on the way to the border crossing at Huaquillas. West of Guayaquil the beaches start, a long, golden string of them dotted up the coast towards Manta and the north, though apart from flash, high-rise Salinas most are fairly undeveloped. Few places see many gringos along here, with the exception of Montañita, a laid-back, grungy surfing hangout and the dusty, tumbledown port of Puerto López, used as a base for whale-watching from June to September or visiting Parque Nacional Machalilla year-round. This park is the southern coast's most compelling attraction, taking in stunning, pristine beaches, dry and humid tropical forests and, most famously, the Isla de la Plata, an inexpensive alternative to the Galápagos for viewing boobies, frigates and albatrosses.

The best time to visit the coast is between December and April, when bright blue skies and hot sunshine more than compensate for the frequent showers. This rainy season has the added advantage of bringing the coastal vegetation to life, making the dry tropical forests luxuriant and moist. Outside these months, during the dry season, the weather is still warm (averaging 23#&176;C), but the skies are often depressingly grey. Another consideration is the irregular and unpredictable El Niño weather phenomenon, when unusually heavy storms can leave the coast severely battered, washing away roads and disrupting communications.