The farmland around IISALMI, an hour north of Kuopio by bus, makes a welcome break from pine forests and marks the centre of northern Savolax, a district that, in public opinion polls, is regularly voted the least desirable place to live in Finland. The reason for this is slightly mysterious – the modestly sized town looks nice enough – but might be due to the locals' reputation for geniality mixed with a dash of laziness. Whether this is innate, or a defensive reaction by country folk who've been pitchforked into urban life, is debatable.

Whatever the stereotype, Iisalmi's two museums give a very good insight into local life. The District Museum (June to mid-Aug Mon– Fri 9am–6pm; rest of the year Mon– Fri 9am–5pm; free), at Kivirannantie 5 on the shores of the Paloisvirta river – cross the river from the centre of town and turn right – reveals the down-at-heel life of the peasantry via a number of wooden farmhouses once occupied by local farmers and fishermen; while the Juhani Aho Museum (May– Aug daily 10am–6pm; €2) in Mansikkaniemi, 5km along the main road, Pohjolankatu, by local bus, shows how the other half lived. Juhani Aho was a major influence on Finnish literature as it emerged around the beginning of the twentieth century, and the simple buildings filled with the author's possessions manage to convey the commitment of the artists who came together in the last years of Russian rule. However, it's the Brewery Museum, Luuniemenkatu 4 (Mon– Fri 10am–5pm; free) which is Iisalmi's greatest draw – from the tourist office, head west one block on Satamakatu before turning left into Riistakatu and walking another block; Luuniemenkatu begins at the junction with Veikonkatu. Finns flock here to see the brewing process that has created one of the nation's favourite tipples, Olvi, and although there's no tasting as part of the tour, there is a beer hall, Holvi Oluthalli, attached to the site, where it's possible to lay your hands – against hard cash – on some of the hard stuff. Don't think of coming here in the evening for a drink – it's closed.