Taiwan's political and financial heart, TAIPEI is one of the most densely inhabited cities on earth. Surrounded by mountains at the northern tip of the island, the capital is a bustling melee of motor scooters, markets, skyscrapers and temples, with almost three million people packed into the Taipei Basin. Despite being crammed with world-class attractions and some of the best Chinese food on the planet, the city is vastly underrated as a tourist destination. Don't be put off by first impressions: much of its architecture is shabby and unattractive, the result of slapdash construction in the early years of Kuomintang (KMT) rule, primarily to accommodate almost one million new arrivals from China in 1949. The KMT government (and many residents) regarded Taipei as a temporary home, a base from which to launch the recovery of the mainland. Not anymore – Taipei's newest buildings are smart, stylish and built to last, and it's the most international place on the island. English is widely spoken and there are numerous Western chains, restaurants and pubs, but it's by no means "Westernized". What you'll find instead is a modern, high-tech and innovative city (the first to offer wireless Internet on a large scale), with a distinct local character.

Though you could spend months here and still not absorb all the city has to offer, a week is usually enough to get a decent taster. Many tourists come solely to visit the mind-blowing National Palace Museum, but they risk missing out on a host of other attractions. West Taipei is the historic core of the city and where many of its best sights are located: tour the Presidential Building, National Taiwan Museum and Chiang Kai-shek Memorial Hall to grapple with Taiwan's complex history, while Longshan Temple is the best introduction to its religious traditions. Further north, Dihua Street is packed with traditional stores, while Baoan Temple is one of the country's most elegant shrines and the Shunyi Museum of Formosan Aborigines is an excellent introduction to Taiwan's indigenous peoples. East Taipei offers a change of pace and scenery, with Xinyi district a showcase of gleaming office towers and glitzy shopping malls, all of them overshadowed by cloud-scraping Taipei 101, the world's tallest building. Eating in Taipei is always memorable, with a huge choice of exceptional restaurants, teahouses and some of Taiwan's best night markets, while a vast range of department stores, specialist shops and antique stalls makes shopping in the city just as rewarding. To the north, Yangmingshan National Park and Beitou are where the best hikes and hot springs are located, while Wulai to the south provides a taster of Taiwan's wilder hinterland.