From Sangrí, the road twists northeast into the
Tragéa region, scattered with olive trees and occupying a vast highland valley. The area is the only part of the Cyclades to have a regular winter snowfall, and the only part with traditional songs about snow. It's a good jumping-off point for all sorts of exploratory rambling, and
HALKÍ is a fine introduction to what is to come. Set high up, 16km from Náxos Town, it's a quiet town with some lovely churches, including the
Panayía Protóthronis, with its eleventh- to thirteenth-century frescoes; it only opens to visitors in the morning. Just behind is the restored seventeenth-century Venetian
Grazia-Barozzi Tower.
Yiannistaverna is the focal point of village activity and has a good selection of well-prepared local food. Nearby is the distillery (1896) and shop of Vallindras Naxos Citron, whose charming proprietors explain the process of producing
kítron followed by a little tasting session. The olive plantations surrounding Halkí are crisscrossed by paths and tracks, the groves dotted with numerous Byzantine chapels – Áyios Yeóryios Dhiasorítis and Panayía Dhamiótissa (theoretically both open Mon– Fri 10am–2.30pm) are well-signed from Halkí and the Moní road respectively.
At the far end of the gorgeous Tragéa valley,
FILÓTI, the largest village in the region, lies on the slopes of Mount Zás (or Zeus) which, at just over 1000m, is the highest point in the Cyclades. Under the shade of the plane trees on the main platía are several pleasant
kafenía, as well as
Babulas Grill-Restaurant, which has the best rooms (
22850 31426;
€31-40) in the village. To get an idea of the old village, climb the steps up the hill starting at the platía.
From Filóti, it's a round-trip walk of three to four hours on partly marked trails to the summit of Zás, a climb which rewards you with an even more astounding panorama of virtually the whole of Náxos and its Cycladic neighbours. The initial path out of the village climbs up to rejoin the Apóllon road. Take the Dhanakós turning, to the waymarked final approach trail which begins beside small Ayía Marína chapel. There is also a marked turn-off steeply down to the 150m-deep Zás Cave, but this is more easily accessed by a separate route (1hr) from Filóti.