Varlaám (Barlaam) Varlaám (summer daily 9am–4pm; winter Mon– Wed, Sat & Sun 9am–3pm) is among the oldest monasteries, replacing a hermitage established by St Varlaam shortly after Athanasios' arrival. The present building, now home to seven monks and one of the most beautiful in the valley, was constructed by the Apsaras brothers from Ioánnina in 1540–44.
The monastery's katholikón, dedicated to Ayíon Pándon (All Saints), is small but glorious, supported by painted beams, its walls and pillars totally covered by frescoes (painted 1544–66), dominated by the great Pandokrátor of the inner dome. Among the more unusual are a beardless Christ Emmanuel in the right transept conch, and the Parliament of Angels on the left; on one pier, the Souls of the Righteous nestle in the Bosom of Abraham, while the Good Thief is admitted to Paradise. On the inner sanctuary wall, there's a vivid Crucifixion and a Dormition of the Virgin with, lower down, an angel severing the hands of the Impious Jew attempting to overturn her funeral bier. The treasury-museum features crucifixes and silver items; elsewhere the monks' original water barrel is on show.
Varlaám prominently displays its old ascent tower, comprising a reception platform, well-worn windlass and original rope-basket. Until the 1930s the only way of reaching most Meteoran monasteries was by being hauled up in said rope-basket, or by equally perilous retractable ladders. A nineteenth-century abbot, asked how often the rope was changed, replied, "Only when it breaks." Steel cables eventually replaced ropes, and then steps were cut to all monasteries by order of the Bishop of Tríkala, unnerved by the vulnerability of his authority on visits. Today rope-baskets figure only as museum exhibits, supplanted by square metal cage-buckets along aerial cables bridging chasms from the nearest car park.
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