The remains of ancient Delos ("The Brilliant"), though skeletal and swarming now with lizards and tourists, give some idea of the past grandeur of this small, sacred isle a few sea-miles west of Mýkonos. The ancient town lies on the west coast on flat, sometimes marshy ground that rises in the south to Mount Kýnthos. From the 113m summit there's a magnificent view across the nearby Cyclades.

The first excursion boats to Delos leave the small port near the west end of Mýkonos harbour daily at 8.30 or 9am (€12.50 round trip), except Mondays when the site is closed. You may have to return on the same boat, but in season each does the trip several times and you can choose what time you leave. The last return is usually about 3pm, and you'll need to arrive early if you want to make a thorough tour of the site. In season a daily kaïki makes return trips from the Mýkonos beaches (€10) with pick-up points at Platýs Yialós and Ornós, but only allows you three hours on the island. Check ahead with operators of Delos excursion boats or look for posters advertising evening concerts and other special performances that occasionally animate the ancient site in season. Bring your own picnic, as the snack bar (if open) is overpriced.