The capital of Cambodia and the heart of government, PHNOM PENH retains much of its original charm, crisscrossed by broad tree-lined boulevards and dotted with old colonial villas. Situated in a virtually flat area at the confluence of the Tonle Sap, Bassac and Mekong rivers, the compact city hasn't yet been overwhelmed by towering high-rise developments, and imparts a sense of openness and light. The city throbs with enterprise and energy, which makes it difficult to comprehend that a generation ago it was forcibly evacuated and left to run to ruin by the Khmer Rouge. Inevitably, some of the scars are still evident: side roads are pot-holed and strewn with rubble, some of the elegant villas are ruined beyond repair, and when it rains the antiquated drainage system backs up, flooding the roads.

It's a testimony to the unflappable good nature and stoicism of the city's inhabitants that, despite past adversity, they remain upbeat and determined to improve their lot. Many people do two jobs to get by, keeping government offices ticking over for a few hours each day and then moonlighting as moto drivers or tutors; furthermore, the Cambodian belief in education is particularly marked here, with anyone who can afford to sending their children to supplementary classes outside school hours. This dynamism constantly attracts Cambodians from the provinces, who find it impossible to believe that Phnom Penh's streets aren't paved with metaphorical gold. Newcomers soon discover that it's tougher being poor in the city than in the country, and are forced to rent tiny rooms for themselves and their families in one of the many shanties on the city's outskirts, ripped off for the privilege by affluent landlords.

For tourists and locals alike, the lively riverfront – a wide grassy promenade that runs beside the Tonle Sap for nearly 2km – is the city's focal point. In the evenings, Phnom Penh residents come here to take the air, snack on hawker food and enjoy the impromptu waterside entertainment; the strip also shows the city at its most cosmopolitan, lined with Western restaurants, cafés and bars. Three key tourist sights lie close by. Arguably the most impressive of the city's attractions is the elegant complex housing the Royal Palace and Silver Pagoda, the palace's distinctive four-faced spire towering above the pitched golden roofs of its Throne Hall; the adjacent Silver Pagoda is home to a stunning collection of Buddha statues. A block north of the palace is the National Museum, a dark-red building set in leafy surroundings and housing a fabulous collection of ancient Cambodian statuary dating back to as early as the sixth century. Also near the river are a number of lesser attractions, including two pagodas: Wat Ounalom, one of five founded during Phnom Penh's first spell as the capital, and the bustling hilltop Wat Phnom, whose foundation is said to predate that of the city. The old French administrative area surrounds the hill on which Wat Phnom sits, and you can admire many fine colonial buildings, some restored, on a jaunt around the area. Also on many tourist itineraries, though for completely different reasons, is the Toul Sleng Genocide Museum south of the centre; this erstwhile school became a centre for the torture of cadres who fell foul of the Pol Pot regime.

Many visitors spend just a couple of days in Phnom Penh before hopping on to Siem Reap and Angkor, but there are plenty of reasons to linger longer. The capital boasts the best shopping in the country, with a vast selection of souvenirs and crafts, plus an excellent range of cuisines. In addition, Phnom Penh offers a rare opportunity to get a glimpse of the traditional culture which the Khmer Rouge tried to wipe out, including classical dance and shadow puppetry.

And if you do linger, there are also several rewarding day-trips from the capital out into the surrounding countryside. The most obvious trip is a combined excursion to the Angkor-era temples of Tonle Bati, featuring well-preserved wall carvings, and Phnom Chisor, which boasts a stunning hilltop site. Especially poignant if you've visited the genocide museum is a trip to the killing fields at Choeung Ek, where a memorial stupa contains the remains of some of those murdered here. Among other possible day-trips are the old capitals of Oudong and Lovek, though for a genuine contrast to the historical treasures and bustle of Phnom Penh, there are a smattering of rural villages and riverside pleasure spots to explore quite close at hand.