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The North Aegean
Turkey's North Aegean coast sees far fewer visitors than the shoreline ­further south. There are decent sandy beaches, though the lower sea temperature and lack of a major airport protect the region from widespread development. Most summer visitors are Turks and, while tourism is inevitably important to the local economy, even in August the number of visitors doesn't match those at the country's more renowned destinations. Away from the resort towns, life goes on much as it always has, with farming and fishing providing a livelihood for the bulk of the population.
This area, which roughly constitutes ancient Aeolia, has been settled since Paleolithic times; civilization bloomed early here under the Phrygians, who arrived in Anatolia during the thirteenth century BC. Later waves of Greek colonists established settlements on the coast, leaving the region rich in Classical and Hellenistic remains. Although the sparse ruins of Troy in the north don't quite live up to their literary and legendary reputation, the ancient cities of Assos and Pergamon (modern Bergama) display some tangible reminders of the power and wealth of the greater Greek empire. Less visited than any of these is the more isolated Lydian city of Sardis, the ancient capital of King Croesus (and Midas before him), one of Aegean Turkey's most impressive archeological sites.
Coming from İstanbul or anywhere else in northwestern Turkey, the most obvious entry point is Çanakkale – useful as a base for both the ruins at Troy and the World War I battlefields on the Gelibolu peninsula. The road running south from Çanakkale is justifiably characterized as scenic on most maps, with much of the route wooded and gently hilly, giving way to a coastal strip with the mountains of the Kaz Daıı range rising behind. Further south, the best stretches of beach lie near Ayvalık – the area's longest-established resort – though there are also pleasant resorts and sands along the coastal strip running from Assos to Ören, on the northern shore of the Gulf of Edremit, as well as at the small port towns of Dıkılı, Çandarlı and Foça. Offshore, the Turkish Aegean islands of Gökçeada and Bozcaada provide an easy escape from Çanakkale, though many people prefer the charms of smaller islands such as Alibey, a good day-trip destination from the resort of Ayvalık.
In general there's less to write home about further inland, where a mountainous landscape harbours a few predominantly industrial cities. However, the İzmir– Bandırma railway line provides an alternative approach to the region, passing through the otherwise unremarkable provincial capital of Balıkesir (from where there are frequent buses to the Gulf of Edremit and Çanakkale), Soma (a short bus-ride away from Bergama) and Manisa – the last a town of some antiquity, often used by visitors as a base for seeing Sardis. Of these inland destinations only Manisa and, further east, the town of Alaşehir are really worth any kind of prolonged attention.
Highlights

Troy The most celebrated archeological site in Turkey boasts a bleak, windswept setting and an enduring mythology.

Bozcaada Small island, famed for its elegant architecture, relaxing atmosphere and especially its wine.

Assos The old town and ancient city occupy a rocky peak, with stunning views of the Aegean and Greece beyond, while its harbour is one of the most picturesque to be found anywhere on the Aegean coast.

Ayvalık Relax in this former Greek fishing-town, with its charming mix of derelict and restored Ottoman houses.

Ancient Pergamon The renowned acropolis has a dramatic setting and wide-ranging ruins that easily rival more famous sights further south.

Foça The former fishing-village is now a popular resort that hasn't forgotten its maritime heritage.

Manisa This working town has some particularly impressive mosques and makes a good base from which to explore the surroundings.

Sardis Seat of King Croesus, and the first city to see the use of coins, these remote ruins warrant a lengthy visit.


You are reading content from The Rough Guide to Turkey, Sixth Edition

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