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South Jutland
Denmark's only point of connection with mainland Europe (by way of a shared border with Germany), south Jutland is often overlooked by visitors heading straight to Copenhagen on fast intercity trains. This hasn't always been the case, however, as the region's territorially strategic position has long seen it act as a buffer zone between invaders coming from the south and the rest of Denmark. In fact, southern Jutland represents the country's most hotly disputed land, and the constant struggles for control have left the area littered with the castles and fortifications of its would-be rulers. Until the referendum of 1920, which finally ceded the south back to Denmark and away from German control, the area was part of the Danish Duchy of Schleswig; controlled by Danish nobles, but with German as the predominant language toward its south, and Danish to its north. With its strong and abiding affiliation to Schleswig, the region has always stood out slightly. Linguistically, the German-influenced local dialect is almost impossible for many Danes to understand – and though the German-speaking population here, who still maintain Teutonic cultural traditions, remain a minority, there's always an unspoken and nagging doubt as to whether southerners would vote differently should the 1920 referendum take place today.
Most of south Jutland's attractions lie along the two coasts – the interior is primarily agricultural and holds little of interest. The east coast has many reminders of the region's role in national and international conflicts, while the west coast, remote then as now, offers magnificent birdlife and some small but interesting commercial towns. The northern metropolis and gateway to the region, Kolding boasts an imaginatively restored castle and a good art museum, while to the south, Haderslev is home to a grand cathedral that towers over the medieval townhouses, and Aabenraa holds another of the fifteenth-century castles that once defended the region. The country's most devastating defeat on home soil, meanwhile, is engagingly commemorated in and around Sønderborg. Interspersed with scenic fjords, the lush rolling hills on the east coast couldn't be more different to the tidal mud flats and marshes of the west, where the Wadden Sea area offers fantastic birdwatching, some lovely beaches on the island of Rømø, and plenty of possibilities for walking and cycling on neighbouring Mandø. Capping the southwest coast, the engaging and well-preserved medieval town of Ribe is well worth a day's wander.
Highlights

Koldinghus This thirteenth-century royal castle lay ruined for hundreds of years, and its restoration is nothing short of ingenious.

Wadden Sea birdwatching These huge tidal flats offer some of the best birding in the world, with some of the most easy-access opportunities at Magrethes kog, just west of Tønder.

Ribe The quaint old town centre is ideal for a day's ambling, with beautiful old houses surrounding a grand cathedral.

Brundlund Slot Built by Denmark's first queen, this fortified medieval castle remains surprisingly unchanged.

Dybbøl Banke The moats and trenches here serve as an evocative reminder of the 1864 loss of parts of the south – then north Schleswig – to Prussia and Germany.

Lakolk beach This fabulous and wide sandy beach in the island of Rømø is excellent for all manner of activities as well as swimming.


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