San Francisco rarely tries to pass off pure, unabashed commercialism as a worthy tourist attraction, but with Fisherman's Wharf and the nearby waterfront district, it makes an exception. It's the one place in town guaranteed to produce shudders of embarrassment from most locals.

An inventive use of statistics allows the area to proclaim itself the most-visited tourist attraction in the entire country; in fact, this crowded and hideous ensemble of waterfront kitsch and fast-food stands makes a sad and rather misleading introduction to the city. It may be hard to believe, but this was once a genuine fishing port; the few fishing vessels that can still afford the exorbitant mooring charges are usually finished by early morning and get out before the tourists arrive. The shops and bars here are among the most overpriced in the city, and crowd-weary families do little to add to the ambiance.

If you do brave it, the best diversion is the Aquarium of the Bay at Pier 39 (Mon– Thurs 10am–7pm, Fri– Sun 10am–8pm; $13.95; 415/623-5000, www.aquariumofthebay.com), which has a transparent tunnel so you can walk among gliding sharks and rays and a hands-on exhibition where you can stroke them. One-hour baycruises depart several times a day from piers 39 and 41. If you head west to the museums of Fort Mason and on to the expanse of green parkland along the Marina district, you'll get an excellent view of the Golden Gate Bridge.