ODECEIXE tumbles down a hillside opposite the broad valley of the Odeceixe river, below the winding, tree-lined main coast road. Sleepy out of season, its character changes in summer when it attracts a steady stream of surfers, campervanners and families, lured by a superb beach and some of the cheapest rooms in the region. Most of the action is centred on the main square, Largo 1 de Maio, with some good café-bars, and from where the beach is signposted to the west. Around here you'll also find the post office, banks, supermarkets, café-restaurants and plenty of places letting out rooms. Most central is Residêncio do Parque, Rua da Estrada Nacional 11 (282 947 117; breakfast included; €56–75), a huge place with a mixed bag of en-suite rooms – the best are on the top floor with small balconies overlooking the valley. Better value is Hospedaria Firmino Bernardinho, on the way to the beach on Rua da Praia (282 947 362; €36–55), with modern en-suite rooms each also with small balconies that overlook the valley. The best place for food is O Retiro do Adelino at Rua Nova 20, which serves inexpensive grilled chicken, fish with tomato rice and feijoda.

Praia de Odeceixe lies some 4km to the west, reached down a verdant river valley. It's a lovely walk, following the river to a broad, sandy bay framed by low cliffs. It is one of the most sheltered beaches on this stretch of coast, offering superb surfing and relatively safe swimming, especially when the tide is out. A pretty cluster of traditional houses and cafés lie banked up to the south of the bay. Restaurante Café Dorita (282 947 581; breakfast included; €36–55) serves decent grills and snacks on a terrace above the beach, and also lets out simple rooms – the best are en suite with sweeping views over the waves. There are plenty of private rooms available too; look for signs saying quartos.