With its spectacular sandy beaches and picturesque rocky coves, it is not surprising that the Algarve is Portugal's most popular region for holidaymakers. This has inevitably led to some heavy development. Large segments of the coast from Faro west to Albufeira have suffered most, with endless villa complexes creating a rather depressing Mediterranean-style suburbia. But at least the facilities are first rate, as are the beaches. Elsewhere in the Algarve, especially around Sagres and Tavira, the surroundings are far more attractive, with relaxed, small-scale resorts located near superb beaches or island sandbanks.

The coastline in fact has two quite distinct characters. To the west of Faro you'll find the classic postcard images – namely a series of tiny bays and coves, broken up by weird rocky outcrops and fantastic grottoes. They're at their most exotic around the major resort towns of Lagos and Albufeira, while smaller resorts include the former fishing villages of Salema or Burgau, or the historic cape of Sagres – site of Henry the Navigator's naval school. The string of villages along the rougher west (Atlantic) coast, as far as Odeceixe, are quieter still, with limited facilities but fantastic wild beaches.

East of Faro, there's a complete change as you encounter the first of a series of sandy offshore islets, the ilhas, which front the coastline virtually all the way to the Spanish border. The resorts here have a more Portuguese feel than those in the central stretch, and first-choice bases here would be Faro itself – capital of the entire region – Olhão, Fuzeta or Tavira, all of which offer access to the sandbank islands.

Inland Algarve is still relatively undeveloped, especially around Alcoutim on the Spanish border, and there are other scattered attractions in the Roman ruins of Estói and the market town of Loulé, both north of Faro, and the old Moorish town of Silves, easily reached from Portimão. The outstanding area, however, is the Serra de Monchique, the highest mountain range in the south, with cork and chestnut woods, remote little villages and a beautiful old spa in Caldas de Monchique.

The Algarve is a year-round destination, and in many respects the region is at its best in spring or winter, when the sunshine is still warm and there are far fewer visitors. Indeed, off-season travel in the Algarve will get you some of the best deals in the country, with luxury hotels offering all-in packages at discounts of up to seventy percent; check out the latest deals at the local tourist offices. But if you come in high summer without an advance booking, finding accommodation can be a real struggle, though you'll usually find something. It's essential to reserve in advance if you want to stay at a particular establishment, and you should also be prepared for very high summer prices relative to the rest of the country – pensions and hotels can cost up to twenty percent more on the Algarve .

Getting around by public transport is easier here than anywhere else in Portugal and, since the coastline is only 240km long from east to west, you can see an awful lot in just a few days. The Algarve rail line runs from Lagos in the west to Vila Real de Santo António on the Spanish border, calling at most major towns en route (you may have to change at Tunes, Faro or Tavira, depending on your destination); while buses link all the resorts and main inland villages. With a car, you'll be able to reach the more out-of-the-way inland villages and inaccessible cove beaches. The main east– west E01 highway from Lagos to the Spanish border offers fast and easy access to the region, linking with the A2/E01 motorway to Lisbon just north of Albufeira.

Finally, a comprehensive calendar of cultural events can be found in Agenda, available free from tourist offices, cultural centres and larger hotels – perhaps the biggest affair is the Algarve International Music Festival (early summer), hosting major artists.