KRAKÓW, the ancient capital of Poland and residence for centuries of its kings, was the only major city in the country to come through World War II essentially undamaged. Its assembly of monuments, without rival in Poland, is listed by UNESCO as one of the world's twelve most significant historic sites. The city is indeed a visual treat, with the Wawel being one of the most striking royal residences in Europe, and the old inner town a mass of flamboyant monuments. For Poles, these are a symbolic representation of the nation's historical continuity, and for visitors brought up on grey Cold War images of Eastern Europe they are a revelation. It's certainly a surprisingly Italianate city for this part of Europe, thanks largely to the Renaissance tastes of Poland's sixteenth-century rulers – who repeatedly lured top Italian architects north of the Alps with promises of huge bags of cash.

As a year-round city-break destination Kraków doesn't really have a tourist season, although the place is at its prettiest in spring, summer and the depths of winter. You'll need a good two to three days to do justice to the historical centre and the Wawel; much longer if you're keen to explore the city in depth – a rich and varied urban patchwork that takes in the Jewish heritage areas of Kazimierz and Podgórze, the monasteries and parklands of the western suburbs, and the gritty Stalinist-era housing projects of Nowa Huta. For those eager to roam further afield, Kraków is an important public transport hub and much of this chapter is within day-trip distance of the city.