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When Denmark topped a 2006 survey of the world's happiest places to live, it didn't come as a shock to most Danes. Poised between Scandinavia proper and mainland Europe and spread over the islands of Zealand and Funen and the Jutland peninsula, this relatively small country (roughly the same size as Switzerland) has always punched above its weight – historically, artistically and politically. What's more, Denmark continues to offer its residents one of the highest standards of living in the world, a social welfare system that's second to none and a smooth-running infrastructure typified by its excellent public transport system. Add to that a confident, cool, uncongested capital, a bevy of picturesque historic towns and an unspoilt natural environment of stunning beaches, forests and rolling meadows, and it's clear why the locals take such pride in showing off their country to visitors. Danes tend to be friendly and welcoming folk, and their ingrained sense of sociability is evident at any gathering, where a plentiful supply of home-grown food and drink, candlelight and open fires are all part of creating the unique atmosphere summed up by the term hygge. The English translation ("cosiness") doesn't really do it justice, but more than anything else, it's hygge that sums up Denmark's appeal.
This is a conservative and very traditional country: Denmark's immigration policies are some of the toughest in Europe, and its royal family are still held in high regard, their status unquestioned. But it's also a progressive nation, with legendarily liberal social values and forward-thinking attitudes that have made it one of the most environmentally conscious nations in the world. And although Denmark's history is inevitably associated with the exploits of the Vikings, the country has long played a significant role in wider European affairs. Under the Vikings and their descendants, the Danish crown conquered England and drove out the Swedes to rule Norway for nearly five hundred years, as well as maintaining colonial strongholds in South Asia, West Africa and the Caribbean until the early twentieth century. Since then, the country's energies have been turned inwards, toward the development of a well-organized yet hardly over-bureaucratic society that does much to encourage national pride in culture and the arts, and which strongly fosters the freedoms of the individual.
Denmark is the easiest of the Scandinavian countries to explore in terms of travelling costs and distances: you can drive from Copenhagen in the east to Esbjerg in the west in well under three hours. The bulk of visitors are drawn to the principal cities of Copenhagen, Odense and Århus – historic places that combine a lively social and cultural life with a welcoming and homely charm, and whose stylish hotels, shops, cafés and public buildings are living museums of Denmark's outstanding credentials in design and architecture. But it would be a shame never to venture away from the cities. The Danes are justifiably proud of their country's great outdoors, and although the landscape isn't hugely dramatic, the gently undulating hillsides, vast meadows and forested valleys are beautifully unspoiled, dotted with picturesque villages – and the 7300km of coastline means you're never far from the sea. Indeed, the Danish coast is perhaps the jewel in the country's crown, a bewitching mix of sandy beaches, glimmering chalk cliffs and placid fjords, with over four hundred islands and skerries just off its shores. Furthermore, as Denmark's countryside is criss-crossed by thousands of miles of cycling trails, it's a brilliant place to explore by bike.
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