Anusarn Market Off Thanon Chang Klan. Happy night-time hunting ground of open-air stalls and restaurants. One-dish operators (serving up hawy thawt) square up to each other across a shared courtyard of tables; beyond lie halal restaurants specializing in barbecued chicken with honey, and several good seafood places, including the old favourite Fatty's. Prices are above average as this is the heart of tourist land.

Baanlansa 98/10 Thanon Ratchdamnoen. Just 50 metres east of Wat Phra Singh, this is a convenient place to grab a bite while exploring the downtown temples. It has a nice shady compound with converted sewing machines for tables, and serves standard Thai dishes like crispy pork and greens on rice (B45) and cheap shakes (B25), as well as burgers and sandwiches.

Chiang Mai Vegetarian Centre Thanon Mahidol. A cavernous traditional sala serving a wide range of good veggie dishes on rice, and desserts, with most selections costing under B30. Mon– Fri 6am–2pm.

The Gallery 25 Thanon Charoenrat. Refined restaurant on soothing riverside terraces, behind a gallery for local artists in a century-old teak house. Interesting selection of northern and central Thai food, big portions, slow service, and live traditional northern music nightly.

Hong Tauw Inn 95/17–18 Nantawan Arcade, Thanon Nimmanhemin. Comfortable air-con restaurant done out in "country inn" style, with antiques, plants and old clocks, making for a relaxing environment. The reliable menu ranges from rice and noodle dishes such as khanom jiin, to delicious central and northern Thai main dishes, such as a phanaeng curry for B90, and includes a wide range of Thai desserts.

Huen Phen 112 Thanon Ratchamanka. Probably Chiang Mai's most authentic northern restaurant, serving great khao soi amd other northern favourites from the simple front shop at lunchtime, and from the cosy, antique-laden house behind in the evenings. The selection of hors d'oeuvres at B85 gives a great taste of all the local specials.

Huen Sontharee 46 Thanon Wang Sing Kham. A convivial riverfront restaurant owned by the famous northern Thai folk-singer Sontharee Wechanon, who entertains diners from her balcony-level stage and serves up northern specialities, such as delicious fried Chiang Mai sausage with whole baby garlic. Split levels allow a choice of seating – on a riverside terrace, near the stage or on the floor at round low tables on a balcony overlooking the action. Evenings only.

Just Khao Soi 108/2 Thanon Charoen Prathet. If you get a taste for khao soi, you might like to check out this tourist-oriented spot where you can custom-build your own bowl of broth and noodles, adding condiments from a huge palette, for around B100. Aprons provided to prevent you staining your shirt with the sauce splashings.

Kalare Night Bazaar Food Centre Thanon Chang Klan. A coupon system operates at this open-air collection of northern and central Thai, Indian and veggie foodstalls and bars. It's a good lively place for a break from shopping, a budget meal and a beer, with free shows of traditional dancing on a stage between 8pm and 11pm, making a nice background accompaniment without being too loud or intrusive.

Khao Soi Samoe Jai Thanon Faham (no English sign). Thick and tasty khao soi, delicious satay and other noodle dishes pack the locals in each lunchtime. Bus #2 from Nawarat Bridge. Daily 9am–3pm.

Kiat Ocha 41–43 Thanon Inthrawarorot, off Thanon Phra Pokklao (no English sign). Delicious and very popular satay and khao man kai – boiled chicken breast served with dipping sauces, broth and rice, at around B30 a dish. This and the surrounding cafés are especially handy if you're looking round the old town. Daily 5am–2.30pm.

Krua Sabai Thanon Mahidol. Go into the car park for the golf driving range opposite Airport Plaza to find this little gem of a place that has a relaxing ambience and excellent, reasonably priced Thai food, including daily specials. Bus #4 from Tha Pae Gate.

Maha Naga 431 Thanon Charoenrat. Enjoying one of the best riverside locations in the city and with a choice of dining in elegant wooden salas or on a laterite terrace beneath huge banyan trees, this place offers top quality Thai and Thai fusion dishes (main courses around B400) in a romantic setting. Bus #2 from Nawarat Bridge.

New Lamduon Fahharm Khao Soi 352/22 Thanon Charoenrat. Excellent khao soi prepared to a secret recipe. Also satay, waffles and som tam. Daily 9am–3pm. Bus #2 from Nawarat Bridge.

Palaad Tawanron Above Chiang Mai Zoo. Go to the end of Thanon Suthep, then turn right and follow the signs to one of Chiang Mai's newest and most attractive restaurants, set beside a small waterfall with panoramic views of the city (don't forget the camera). Dishes like tom yam kung (B250) and fried sea bass in fish sauce (B270) keep the customers coming, and there's live music every evening.

Ratchamanka 6 Soi 9, Thanon Ratchamanka. In the grounds of the boutique hotel of the same name, this is one of Chiang Mai's classiest places to eat, with starched linen tablecloths and heavy cutlery, plus an unusual menu of Thai, Shan and fusion dishes. Try the Burmese-style beef (B170) or the Phuket lobster (B850) and finish off with the mango flambé in papaya bowl (B120). Evenings only.

Tha Nam 43/3 Moo 2, Thanon Chang Klan. Restaurant on the southern edge of town serving good traditional northern and central Thai food (northern hors d'oeuvres B130, tom yam kung B100) in a ramshackle teak house, where musicians play traditional music. Eat on the huge terrace, which has a romantic atmosphere, overlooking a quiet green stretch of the river.

Whole Earth 88 Thanon Sri Dornchai. Mostly veggie dishes from Thailand and India, plus a big fish and seafood selection, with main dishes costing B100-200; soothing atmosphere with occasional live mood music in a traditional Lanna house, with verandas overlooking a large garden.