The Phnom Tamau Zoological Gardens and Wildlife RescueCentre is set in an area of regenerating scrub forest between Tonle Bati and Phnom Chisor. Most animals in the zoo here were rescued from desperate situations: many were confiscated before they could be smuggled out of the country to satisfy demand for exotic foods and medicine in China and Thailand; others were found for sale in the markets, kept as pets in tiny cages or destined for the restaurant tables of Phnom Penh. Although many of the animals still have far from adequate facilities, the team of dedicated keepers do their best with limited finances. With an annual feeding bill alone of over $100,000, the centre relies on private donations and sponsorship for funding. Individual animals can be sponsored through Save Cambodia's Wildlife (wildlife@bigpond.com.kh), an NGO which promotes awareness of Cambodia's wildlife heritage in schools and among local visitors, through which it's hoped that demand for wild animals and their products will gradually diminish – hopefully before they are all wiped out.

The star attractions are undoubtedly the tigers, which by day prowl around a purpose-built deluxe enclosure, endowed with natural boulders to soak up the sun and scrub cover for shade. At night they are secured indoors and protected by armed keepers – poachers are still a cause for concern and a dead tiger can net thousands of dollars. Close to the tiger enclosure a spacious compound is home to a collection of sun bears and black bears, while further enclosures contain other indigenous species – elephants, crocodiles, pangolins, various wild cats, deer, monkeys and snakes. The cranes and other birds are by now quite tame and you can wander around inside their enclosure, getting quite close to them.