'Mira, mira!” came the cry from the back of the truck. Seconds later we screeched to a sand-sputtering halt that sent me flying. Scrambling out of the pick-up, we headed to the water’s edge for a better look at what the tides had swept onto this lonely stretch of beach. It was as big as a VW Beetle and as otherworldly as a meteorite. We stared, awestruck, as if we had just stumbled upon the Holy Grail.

For the biologists who stood beside me, it was indeed as if the sea had just anteed up a sacred relic. “A sperm whale skull”, someone uttered in disbelief. Wide-eyed, we continued to gape at the white hulk that glowed in the setting sun. Nearby, glistening waters washed over the whale's massive skeleton, still partially sheathed in broad ribbons of blubber. I never knew death and decomposition could be so beautiful.

The remains of this Leviathan had washed up on a remote beach on Baja California’s Pacific coast, where I was spending the week with a group of marine biologists. Although Baja has long lured scientists from around the globe, for many travelers it is a region that remains uncharted. Most people aren’t even sure if this 1100km sliver of land jutting south from San Diego is part of California or Mexico. Except for the resort-strewn tourist haven of Cabo San Lucas on the southern tip of this Mexican peninsula, people mistakenly write-off Baja as nothing more than a barren, cactus-studded desert.

But this desolate landscape is just where Baja begins, not where it ends. Shift your land-locked perspective and turn your gaze towards the sea – Baja’s blue frontier – where you’ll find a vast wilderness teeming with an astounding diversity of life. Fed by cold, nutrient-rich flows, the waters surrounding Baja are a Mecca for countless species of fish, crustaceans, marine mammals and seabirds. Migratory species such as whales and sea turtles come from far and wide to bask in these waters. Some sea turtles actually traverse the Pacific, swimming from Japan (an over-20,000km round-trip) just to feed on Baja’s rich soup.

This same watery wilderness that draws animals from afar has also long been a magnet for naturalists, scientists and explorers who come to study and marvel at Baja’s bounty. In 1940, the celebrated author John Steinbeck embarked on a six-week sailing expedition to investigate and document Baja’s marine riches, which resulted in the adventurous tale, The Log from the Sea of Cortez. Today, more and more travelers are heeding Baja’s siren call. Whether you are into boating, kayaking, SCUBA, or snorkeling, there are numerous ways in which to launch your own adventure. But first you need to decide whether you are heading to the tranquil, sapphire waters of the east… or to the tempestuous solitude of the west.

The East Coast: A Blue Eden
The shore that borders the Gulf of California, also known as the Sea of Cortez, is nothing less than spectacular. The coast is riddled with picturesque coves where red rock cliffs tumble down into sparkling blue waters. The first time I found myself in one of these coves was on the outskirts of Loreto – a charming city that was once the capital of California. Local outfitters offer in Loreto offer everything from snorkeling with manta rays, to paddling through cavernous grottos filled with sea lions, to diving with dolphins and sharks. And then of course, there are the whales – blues, finbacks, California greys, humpbacks, orcas and sperm whales. It’s little wonder that Jacques Cousteau called this area “the world’s aquarium”.

Whether you take day trips out of Loreto, or spend the week paddling along the coast, your experience won’t be complete without sampling local seafood favorites such as Mahi tacos or grilled Baja spiny lobster tails. While sport fishing is always an option, many enjoy the “catch and release” method, opting to support the local fishermen by eating in restaurants. Fishing cooperatives in Loreto and in many other parts of Baja work hard to maintain sustainable fisheries – knowing all too well that the sea’s bounty is plentiful, but not inexhaustible.

The West Coast: Windswept and Wild
A few hours drive from Loreto will land you on Baja’s Pacific coast where the winds are stronger, the waves are bigger, and signs of civilization are few and far between. You can base yourself out of well-developed spots such as Todos Santos, a thriving community best known for its colony of expatriate and Mexican artists – and its surf. But if you are looking for something a little quieter, a little more Mexican, and a lot more remote, head for San Carlos and Lopez Mateos – two, small fishing villages on Magdalena Bay. “Mag Bay” is the perfect place to escape from tourists, practice your Spanish, and commune with the gentle grey whales that migrate here to breed during the winter months.

The last time I visited Mag Bay, I decided to forego the whales to study the area’s sea turtle population. My quest began in a mangrove-fringed estuary where herons, egrets and ibis seek refuge from the scorching sun and sea turtles come to feed. After kayaking for almost two hours, we had our first encounter. It was worth the wait. Equipped with snorkel gear, I plunged into the water and swam alongside a 300-pound black turtle. It was an extraordinary experience – evoking childhood visions of secret worlds where magical creatures roam.

Thirty years ago, this region was brimming with five different species of sea turtles – fishermen tell stories of seeing hundreds of turtles on a daily basis. Today, as a result of commercial fishing activities, these turtle populations are so diminished that you’re lucky to see two or three. I later learned that local residents are working to establish a turtle refuge in Estero Banderitos – an estuary not far from the beach where we the sperm whale skeleton had washed ashore. Communities throughout Magdalena Bay are joining forces to create a safe-haven where gillnet fishing and other activities that increase turtle mortality would be restricted. Their motivation? To ensure that their grandchildren will be able to meet sea turtles in the future.

After years of encounters with sea turtles and the many other inhabitants of Baja’s waters, I was beginning to think that I had seen it all. But when that whale skull appeared before us, it reminded me of the many secrets that still remain hidden beneath the ocean's surface. The more time I spend exploring Baja's coasts, the more secrets that are revealed to me – and the more I am reminded of the abundance, diversity and fragility of this vast blue frontier.

Lisa Grossman is a writer, documentary producer and avid traveler. To organize a trip to Baja, check-out these reputable outfitters: Journey Mexico, www.journeymexico.com and Baja Expeditions, www.bajaex.com. For more information about protecting Baja’s marine wilderness, write to the Blue Ocean Institute at: info@blueocean.org