Peru Guide
The Titicaca Basin
Juli
A few kilometres on from the Amaru Muru rock is the relatively large town of JULI, now bypassed by a new road, but nestling attractively between gigantic round-topped and terraced hills. Juli is also known as Pequeña Roma (Little Rome) because of the seven prominent mountains immediately surrounding it, each one of them of spiritual significance to the indigenous inhabitants in terms of earth-magic, healing and fertility. Perhaps because of this, the Jesuits chose Juli as the site for a major mission training centre, which prepared missionaries for trips to the remoter regions of Bolivia and Paraguay. The Jesuits' political and religious power is reflected in the almost surreal extravagance of the church architecture.
Fronting the large open plaza is the stone-built parish church of San Pedro, marked by its intricately carved Plateresque side altars. Constructed in 1560, it has an impressive cupola, and the cool, serene interior, awash with goldleaf, is home to many superb examples of Cusqueña school artwork. Behind the altar there's a wealth of silver and gold, the woodwork dripping with seashells, fruits and angels. In front of this church you'll often see local shamanic fortune-tellers. Across the plaza from here is the amazing-looking Casa Zavala (House of the Inquisition), with its thatched roof and fantastically carved double doors, which is also known as el carcel ("the Prison"). Juli's numerous other churches display superb examples of the Indian influence, particularly the huge brick and adobe Iglesia San Juan (Mon– Sat 9am–5pm; $1.50), with its mestizo stonework on some of the doors and windows. Cold and musty but with a rather surreal interior, due in part to the play of light through its few high windows, this church was founded in 1775 but is now an excellent museum of religious art and architecture, which handsomely rewards the inquisitive visitor. Of the few hostels here, try the basic Hostal Treboles (Price: $5-10) on the main plaza, or the Hostal Municipal (Price: $5-10) on the left as you enter the town from the Puno road.