Peru Guide
The south coast
The Paracas National Reserve
The Paracas National Reserve, a few kilometres south of El Chaco, was established in 1975, mainly to protect the marine wildlife – including marine cats and hundreds of sea lions – and amazing birdlife. Its bleak 117,000 hectares of pampa are frequently lashed by strong winds and sandstorms (paracas means "raining sand" in Quechua). Home to some of the world's richest seas, an abundance of marine plankton gives nourishment to a vast array of fish and various marine species including octopuses, squid, whale, shark, dolphin, bass, plaice and marlin. This unique desert is also a staging point for a host of migratory birds and acts as a sanctuary for many endangered species.
Plan to stay for a few days, and take food, water and a sun-hat – facilities are almost non-existent. The reserve's natural attractions include plenty of superb, deserted beaches where you can camp for days without seeing anything except the lizards and birdlife, and maybe a couple of fishing boats. Cycling is encouraged in the reserve, though there are no rental facilities and, if you do enter on a bike, keep on the main tracks because the tyre marks will damage the surface of the desert. It's a 21km bus journey from Pisco (local buses leave Pisco market every 20min; $1 each way), or take an organized tour from one of the operators.
The entrance to the reserve is marked by a barrier-gate and guard post (24hr), just off the Panamerican Highway, where you pay the $2 entrance fee, which permits you to stay in the park for up to a week.