Peru Guide
The North
Huamachuco
Infamous in Peru as the site of the Peruvian army's last-ditch stand against the Chilean conquerors back in 1879, HUAMACHUCO, at 3180m, is a fairly typical Andean market town, surrounded by partly forested hills and a patchwork of fields on steep slopes.
The dramatic circular pre-Inca fort of Marca Huamachuco (daily 6am–6pm; free), is the main reason most travellers end up in this neck of the woods. It's a three-hour walk for about 6km from the plaza. What with the fort being located on top of one of several mountains dominating the town, it's hard to get a taxi to take you there, although Alosio Rebaza, at D. Nicolau 100 ( 
076/441488) will transport people in his 4WD vehicle ($12 for up to four, or $25 if you want him to wait for you). Some 3km long, the ruins date back to around 300 BC, when they probably began life as an important ceremonial centre, with additions dating from between 600 and 800 AD. The fort was adopted possibly as an administrative outpost during the Huari-Tiahuanaco era (600–1100 AD), although it evidently maintained its independence from the powerful Chachapoyas nation, who lived in the high forested regions to the north and east of here. An impressive, commanding and easily defended position, Marca Huamachuco is also protected by a massive eight-metre-high wall surrounding its more vulnerable approaches.