Peru Guide
Lima
Callao and La Punta
Stuck out on a narrow, boot-shaped peninsula, Callao and La Punta (The Point) form a natural annex to Lima, looking out towards the ocean. Originally founded in 1537 and quite separate from the rest of the city, Callao was destined to become Peru's principal treasure-fleet port before eventually being engulfed by Lima's other suburbs during the course of the twentieth century. These days it's a crumbling but attractive and atmospheric area full of once splendid houses and restaurants. The land is very low lying and, at la Punta itself, the surf feels as though it could at any moment rise up and swallow the small rowing boat-dotted beach and nearby houses.
Still the country's main commercial harbour, and one of the most modern ports in South America, Callao lies about 14km west of Lima Centro. The suburb is none-too-alluring a place – its slum zones, nameless areas located in the back streets infamous for prostitution and gangland assassins, are considered virtually no-go areas for visitors – but if you're unworried by the potential dangers of the neighbourhood, you will find some of the best ceviche restaurants anywhere on the continent.
At the end of the peninsula, the once fashionable beach resort of La Punta is now overshadowed by the Naval College and Yacht Club. Many of its old mansions, although slowly crumbling, still remain, some of them very elegant, others extravagant monstrosities. Right at the peninsula's tip, a pleasant promenade offers glorious views and sunsets over the Pacific and the nearby offshore islands such as Fronton (with its small, isolated prison), San Lorenzo (with evidence of human occupation, going back to 2,500 BC) and also Isla Palomino (with its colony of sea lions). Meanwhile at the back of the strand there are some excellent restaurants serving traditional local food.