Ecuador Guide
Quito
High in the Andes, Ecuador's capital, Quito, unfurls in an implausibly long north– south ribbon, more than 35km top to bottom and just 5km wide. To the west, the city is dramatically hemmed in by the steep green walls of Volcán Pichincha, the benign-looking volcano which periodically sends clouds of ash billowing into the sky and over the streets. Eastwards, Quito abruptly drops away to a wide valley known as the Valle de los Chillos, marking the beginning of the descent towards the Amazon basin. It's a superb setting, but apart from July and August it can be bone-chillingly cold, with its much-vaunted "spring-like climate" all too often giving way to grey, washed-out skies.
Central Quito divides into two distinct parts. The compact old town, known as the centro histórico, is the city's undisputed highlight, a jumble of narrow streets and wide, cobbled plazas lined with churches, monasteries, mansions and colourful balconied houses. Declared a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1978, the old town contains some of the most beautiful Spanish Colonial architecture on the continent, and the frenetic crowds of indígenas and mestizos that throng its streets give the place a tremendous energy. A reputation for poverty and crime has traditionally discouraged tourists from actually staying here, but a sustained regeneration effort is turning it into a genuine alternative to the neighbouring, bland and modern new town, whose concentration of banks, shops, bars, hotels, restaurants, tour operators and Internet cafés is undeniably convenient, if a little characterless.
As a major crossroads with 1.8 million residents, Quito is a busy transit hub to which travellers usually return between forays to the jungle, the coast, the Galápagos Islands and the northern and southern sierra.
If this is your entry point into the country, be aware that Quito's altitude (2800m) can leave you feeling breathless and woozy when you first arrive – most visitors adjust in a couple of days, often by resting, drinking plenty of water and avoiding alcohol.
Highlights
1 Colonial Quito Quito's magnificent historic quarter, holding some of the continent's best-preserved and most beautiful Spanish colonial architecture, all in a compact area that's easily explored on foot.
2 Basílica del Voto Nacional Quito's concertinaed terrain lends itself to stunning views, but few are as exciting as those from the breathtaking ledges of this quirky Neo-Gothic church.
3 Museo del Banco Central The nation's premier museum, featuring the greatest treasures from five thousand years of human history in the region, including pre-Columbian ceramics and gold artefacts.
4 TelefériQo A swish new gondola ride which effortlessly whizzes passengers high up the slopes of Volcán Pichincha above the capital.
5 La Mitad del Mundo Do the quintessential tourist schtick and get a photo of yourself straddling the equator – almost.
Quito city tours
Tours of Quito are offered by numerous operators. Standard tours ($25–35) last about three hours and usually include a mix of riding in a vehicle and walking around the old town, visiting a few churches and museums, and then taking a trip to the top of El Panecillo for great views of the city. Many operators also make tours of the old town by night, when the churches and monuments are illuminated to stunning effect. Others feature special-interest tours, such as the contemporary-art tour offered by Enchanted Expeditions, Foch 769 and Amazonas ( 
02/2569960), which looks at the works of Oswaldo Guayasamín and other modern Ecuadorian artists. Transport on most city tours is in small minivans, but Klein Tours, Eloy Alfaro N34-151 and Catalina Aldaz ( 02/2267000), drives its clients around in a splendid 1950s wooden bus.
One recommended and less expensive alternative to these private tours is to take a municipal walking tour of the old town (Tues– Sun 9am, 10am, 11am & 2pm; $10; 2hr 30min–3hr), led by multilingual guides from the metropolitan police, which leave from the tourist information office in the Palacio Arzobispal ( 02/2586591). Two circular walking tours are given, which together cover most of the old-town sights. Two shorter tours (2hr) are also offered at night, when the historic centre looks its floodlit best, and they leave from the same place at 7pm (Tues– Sun; $5). You need to book in advance for these and there has to be a minimum of eight people.
Finally, a quick and fun way of acquainting yourself with the main points of interest is to take a horse-drawn carriage (Sun– Wed 10am–10pm, Thurs– Sat 10am– midnight; $4 per person or $12 for a four-person carriage) on a 20-minute tour of the old town plazas and sites. The carrozas or coches de la colonia depart from a stand on García Moreno and Sucre opposite La Compañía.
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