Chile Guide
Valparaíso, Viña and the Central Coast
Zapallar
Arguably the classiest and most attractive of all the Litoral's resorts, ZAPALLAR is set on a sheltered, horseshoe bay backed by lushly wooded hills where luxurious holiday homes and handsome old mansions nestle between the pine trees; the overall effect is not unlike one of the exclusive resorts on the Italian Riviera. Relaxing on the beach is the principal attraction, but you can also stroll along the coastal path around the bay, or walk up Avenida Zapallar, admiring the early-twentieth-century mansions. A more strenuous possibility would be to hire a sea-kayak in the tiny harbour, where pelicans and gulls dive into the crystal-clear waters, or to climb the 692-metre-high Cerro Higuera that rises sharply between Zapallar and Papudo: the path, starting across the main road behind the tennis club, is very difficult to find, but the views from the top are superb. Go down the other side, to Papudo, where you can catch a micro back to Zapallar; allow about three hours up, and a couple of hours to get down.
If you feel like splashing out, the stylish Hotel Isla Seca
( 
33/741224, 
33/741226; Price: CH$50000-75000) up by the main road, at the northern end of the bay, offers quality rooms, its own pool and magnificent views, while ResidencialVilla Alicia, Moisés Chacón 280 ( 33/741176; Price: CH$15000-25000), is a good deal simpler but comfortable enough. Also, the woman in the shop next to the bus stop might be able to let you know who's renting private rooms in town. For dining, there's the excellent and pricey restaurant at the Hotel Isla Seca, which now has a beautiful rooftop terrace where you can feast on their special crab cakes. ElChiringuito ( 33/741024), down by the caleta at the southern tip of the bay, serves up legendary seafood – the scallops are absolutely divine – at marginally better prices. Note that it closes a few days of the week in the off season.