Chile Guide
The Lake District
Parque Nacional Conguillío
The grey peak of Volcán Llaima (3125m) looms over the horizon about 80km east of Temuco. Wrapped around its neck is PARQUE NACIONAL CONGUILLÍO (daily 8am–9pm; CH$2800), a park the volcano has been doing its best to destroy with belch after belch of foul black lava. The latest noticeable eruptions here were in March 1996, and a massive fire in 2002 only added to the sense of constant evolution. It's a fascinating sight – the northern sector is lush, high forest, with steep cliffs covered in spindly armed araucaria trees often draped in furry lime-green moss. In the south, however, the volcano has wreaked havoc. The road from Temuco passes over a wide lava flow, consisting of either rolling plains of thin dust or walls of recently congealed spiked rock, and across the valley you can see two isolated hillocks of green in a sea of black – all that was missed by the unstoppable burning rivers.
The best trekking and housing outpost is the well-marked Swiss-run hostel 
La Suizandina, at km 83 from Temuco ( 
45/1973725, 
lasuizandina@gmx.net, 
www.suizandina.com ; Price: CH$25000-35000). Open year-round, it has cabins and a small hostel from which park treks are organized, including a not-difficult ascent of the stunning volcano Volcán Lonquimay, 30km east, northeast of Curacautin.
There are plenty of places to stay in the park, all pretty pricey. On the edge of a dense wood, 6km in from the Melipeuco entrance, is a complex of expensive five-person cabañas called La Baita Conguillío ( & 
45/730138, labaita@entelchile.net, www.labaita.co.cl ; Price: CH$35000-50000). It's also an activity centre, co-ordinating trekking and eco-tourism in the summer, and skiing and snow-walking in the winter, with other programmes run year-round. There are similarly priced cabañas ( 45/298213; Price: CH$35000–75000) near the park administration office – ask in the well-stocked shop on the shores of Lago Conguillío. The lower-priced cabañas are circular huts strapped to trees and quite a novelty, though the bedding provided is useless, so consider bringing a sleeping bag for additional comfort. Cabañas Santa Elvira de Tracura, 18km from Melipeuco ( 45/230227; Price: CH$25000-35000), offers three fully furnished, comfortable cabañas here.