Chile Guide
The Central Valley
Santa Cruz
West of San Fernando, the paved road running through the Colchagua Valley to the coast takes you past a couple of glorious haciendas, converted into museums, as well as a trail of wineries. The small, well-preserved town of SANTA CRUZ, 40km from San Fernando, sits in the heart of this renowned wine-making district. On the eastern corner of Plaza de Armas, you'll find the Museo de Colchagua, Errázuriz 145 (summer Tues– Sun 10am–7pm, winter Tues– Sun 10am–6pm; CH$3000; 
72/821050, 
museocol@entelchile.net, 
www.museocolchagua.cl ), housed in a splendid, plum-coloured colonial hacienda, flanked by ancient palm trees. Displayed inside is a well designed if eclectic collection, including fossils, a huge amount of amber, pre-Columbian pottery, relics from the War of the Pacific and memorabilia from the Chilean Independence movement. Among the most evocative exhibits are the shiny black nineteenth-century carriages, steered by ghostly mannequins wearing Victorian capes, and the beautiful old saddles, carved wooden stirrups and silver spurs in the huaso display.
On the edge of the Plaza de Armas sits the impeccable 
Hotel Santa Cruz Plaza, Armas 286 ( 72/822529, reservas@hscp.cl, www.hotelsantacruzplaza.cl ; Price: CH$75000-150000). Given that this is far and away the best hotel in the area, reservations are definitely necessary. The wine-tasting room (enoteca) features more than two hundred local varieties. Built by international arms dealer Carlos Cardoen ("the king of cluster bombs"), the restaurant, wines and service are all top-class. You'll find cheaper accommodation at the nicely decorated Hotel Alcázar, north of the plaza at Díaz Besoaín 285 ( 72/822465; Price: CH$15000-25000), or at the smart Hostal Residencial Santa Cruz ( 72/823125; Price: CH$10000-15000) opposite the petrol station on Carvacho. A handful of inexpensive traditional restaurants dot the west side of the plaza, including the basic but wholesome Licanrray, Plaza de Armas 130-A. The Club Social at Plaza de Armas 178, on the north side of the plaza, serves traditional Chilean staples such as lomo de pobre, whilst Cheecar on the southern side of the plaza offers tasty cakes and coffee.