Chile Guide
The Central Valley
Extending south from Santiago as far as the Río Bío Bío, Chile's CENTRALVALLEY is a long, narrow plain hemmed in by the Andes to the east and the coastal range to the west, with a series of gentle ridges and lateral river valleys running between the two. This is the most fertile land in Chile, and the immense orchards, vineyards and pastures that cover the valley floor form a dazzling patchwork of greenery. Even in urban zones, country ways hold sway, and the Central Valley is perhaps the only part of Chile where it is not uncommon to see horse-drawn carts plodding down the Panamericana Highway, the main artery that runs south from Santiago, through Rancagua to Los Angeles in the southern section of the region and beyond. The kernel of the Central Valley lies between the capital and the city of Chillán, some 400km south – a region that for over two hundred years constituted the bulk of colonial Chile. It was here that the vast private estates known as estancias, or haciendas, were established, and where the country's most powerful families exercised an almost feudal rule over the countryside, a situation that persisted well into the twentieth century. These days most of the land is controlled by commercial food producers rather than old, moneyed families, but signs of the colonial way of life are still very much in evidence, with grand casas patronales lurking behind the adobe walls of the region's back lanes, and endless rows of poplars marking the divisions between the former estates. The people, too, have held on to many of their rural traditions: most farm workers still prefer to get around by horse, and the cult of the huaso, or "cowboy", is as strong as ever, as can be witnessed at the frequent rodeos held in stadiums known as medialunas.
Highlights
1 Santa Cruz Visit classic Chilean haciendas in this rustic wine valley town, then taste your way through the "Ruta del Vino", offering some of the world's best red wines.
2 Pichilemu Relax at this haven for water sports, which also doubles as an inexpensive launch pad for visiting the area's deserted beaches and nearby lakes.
3 Reserva Nacional Siete Tazas This stunning park features lush forests, abundant waterfalls and natural swimming pools.
4 Termas de Chillán Legendary hot springs sit atop the side of a volcano; in the winter, the skiing is excellent, while the rest of the year you can hike, swim and embark on horse treks.
5 Salto del Laja Marvel at these thundering waterfalls.