Chile Guide
El Norte Grande
Arica
ARICA likes to call itself "la ciudad de la eterna primavera" – "City of Everlasting Spring". Chile's northernmost city, only 19km south of the Peruvian border, is certainly blessed with a mild climate, which, along with its sandy beaches, makes it a popular holiday resort for Chileans and Bolivians. Although a lingering sea fog can dampen spirits, in the winter especially, just head a few kilometres inland, and you'll usually find blue skies.
The city's compact, tidy centre sits proudly at the foot of the Morro cliff, the site of a major Chilean victory in the War of the Pacific (and cherished as a symbol of national glory). It was this war that delivered Arica into Chilean hands, in 1883, and while the city is emphatically Chilean today, there's no denying the strong presence of mestizo and Quichoa-speaking Peruvians on the streets, trading their fresh produce and artesanía. The liveliest streets are pedestrianized Calles 21 de Mayo and Bolognesi, the latter clogged with artesanía stalls. Far from beautiful, Arica does boast a couple of fine pieces of nineteenth-century architecture, pretty squares filled with flowers and palm trees and a young, lively atmosphere. It's a pleasant enough place to spend a couple of days – or longer, if you feel like kicking back on the beach. A short taxi ride out of town, in the Azapa Valley, the marvellous Museo Arqueológico is one of Chile's best and certainly deserves a visit. A few hours east, up in the cordillera, Parque Nacional Lauca has become one of the most popular attractions in the north of Chile. A couple of Arica's tour operators will get you there if you don't relish the idea of driving yourself.
1 Geotours Bolognesi 421
58/253927
58/251675
geotur@entelchile.net Slick, professional but fairly impersonal company offering mostly one-day tours.
2 Latinorizons Bolognesi 449 & Thompson 236
58/250007
58/250007
www.latinorizons.com
latinor@entelchile.net Friendly Belgian-run company offering a wide range of altiplano tours, including overnight, with a more adventurous feel than most of the others on offer. They have their own hostal in Putre. Extremely reliable and French and English spoken.
3 Parinacota Expediciones Prat 430
58/256227
58/256227 Well-established company offering several options for visiting Parque Nacional Lauca and around, including the usual day-trip, an overnight stop in Putre and a two-night tour taking in the Salar de Surire.