Chile Guide
Easter Island and the Juan Fernández Archipelago
Isla Robinson Crusoe
Twenty-two kilometres long, and 7km at its widest point, ISLA ROBINSON CRUSOE is the archipelago's only permanently inhabited island. Most of the five hundred or so islanders – some of them descendants of the Swiss Baron de Rodt and his compatriots who settled the island at the end of the nineteenth century and exploited the native sandalwood forest to extinction – live in the little village of San Juan Bautista, on the sheltered Bahía Cumberland. The main economic activity is trapping lobsters, and one of the highlights of a stay here is accompanying a fisherman, for a small cost, out to haul in his catch – most trips include a fresh-as-it-comes lobster supper, prepared over a small stove on the boat. Lobsters aside, the island's two principal attractions are the sites associated with the famous castaway Alexander Selkirk – from the replica of his cave dwelling to his real-life lookout point – and the abundant plant life that covers the soaring peaks in a dense layer of vegetation. Of the 146 plant species that grow here, 101 are endemic or unique to the island (the second highest proportion in the world after Hawaii), which is both a national park and a UNESCO World Biosphere Reserve. Most prolific, and most stunning, is the luxuriant rainforest that covers the island's higher slopes, where the giant ferns and thick undergrowth are almost impenetrable.
The legendary goats that ran wild here in Selkirk's day have had their numbers sharply reduced by Conaf, in an attempt to protect the rare endemic plant species they were devouring. Mosquitoes, however, abound, so be sure to bring plenty of repellent. Another thing to bear in mind is that food is very expensive, so it might be worth bringing a supply over from the mainland. The local specialities of lobster and fish are cheaper than on the continent but fresh fruit and vegetables are all but non-existent and regarded as a luxury. If you plan to camp, note that petrol is very difficult to come by (there are only a couple of cars on the island), and you'd be much better off with a butane gas stove.
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