Bolivia Guide
The southern Altiplano
Salar de Uyuni
Covering some 9000 square kilometres of the Altiplano west of Uyuni, the Salar de Uyuni is by far the biggest salt lake in the world, and one of Bolivia's most extraordinary attractions. The Salar is not a lake in any conventional sense of the word: though below the surface it is largely saturated by water, its uppermost layer consists of a thick, hard crust of salt, easily capable of supporting the weight of a car. Large areas of the surface are covered by water during the rainy season between December and April, but even then it's rarely to a depth of more than 1m, and usually much less. Driving across the perfectly flat white expanse of the Salar, with the unbroken chains of snowcapped mountains lining the far horizon, it's easy to believe you're on another planet, so harsh and inhospitable is the terrain. When dry, the surface shines with such intense whiteness that you'll find yourself reaching down to check that it's not ice or snow, whilst by night the entire landscape is illuminated by the eerie white glow of moonlight reflected in the salt. When it's covered in water after rain, the Salar is turned into an enormous mirror that reflects the surrounding mountain peaks and the sky so perfectly that at times the horizon disappears.
Given its remoteness, it's best to visit the Salar de Uyuni on an organized tour, easily arranged from Uyuni. Even if you have your own 4WD complete with supplies and navigational aids, you should be very cautious about venturing onto the Salar. It's easy to get lost in the uniform white landscape, while the hard crust on the surface can give way under the weight of vehicles.
Even compared to the rest of the Altiplano, the Salar de Uyuni can be extremely cold. Take a sleeping bag to supplement the blankets which are usually available in the refuges, a warm hat, gloves, a windproof jacket and several layers of clothing including a fleece or woollen jumper and, ideally, thermal underwear; take sun block and sunglasses as well.