Bolivia Guide
The southern Altiplano
Reserva de Fauna Andina Eduardo Avaroa
The southwesternmost corner of Bolivia is covered by the Reserva de Fauna Andina Eduardo Avaroa, a 7147-square-kilometre wildlife reserve, ranging between 4000m and 6000m in altitude, which encompasses some of the most startling scenery in Bolivia. Like the Salar de Uyuni, the desolate landscapes of this remote region possess a surreal, otherworldly beauty. This is a land of glacial salt lakes whose icy waters are stained bright red or emerald green by microorganisms or mineral deposits; of snowcapped volcanic peaks and frozen, high-altitude deserts; of rock outcrops scoured by the unremitting wind into strange, Dalí-esque formations.
As the name of the reserve suggests, this unforgiving environment supports a wide range of rare Andean wildlife, including many species that are rarely seen elsewhere. The algae-rich salt lakes support large colonies of all three South American species of flamingo, including the world's largest population of the rare James flamingo, one of the eighty different bird species found in the reserve. You're almost certain to see large herds of vicuña grazing on the scant vegetation of the high, semi-desert grasslands. Rabbit-like viscachas and even the elusive Andean fox are also frequently spotted.
The Reserva Eduardo Avaroa is difficult to visit independently; with a population of only a few hundred people living in isolated llama-herding settlements and mining camps, this remote wilderness has no real roads. The way to visit is on an organized tour from Uyuni. Avenidas Arce, Ferroviaria and Potosí are lined with agencies that run combined trips to the reserve and the Salar. The cost of a standard four-day tour runs between $80 and $110.
Even compared to the rest of the Altiplano, the Reserva Eduardo Avaroa can be extremely cold. Take a good sleeping bag (most agencies will rent you one for the trip for $5) to supplement the blankets which are usually available in the refuges, a warm hat, gloves, a windproof jacket and several layers of clothing including a fleece or woollen jumper and, ideally, thermal underwear. You should also take sun block and sunglasses to counter the fierce glare – snow blindness is a real possibility here.