Bolivia Guide
Around La Paz
Chacaltaya
About 40km north of La Paz, Chacaltaya is Bolivia's only developed ski slope and, at over 5000m above sea level, the highest in the world. The skiing here isn't actually that great; the piste is getting shorter by the year as the glacier retreats at an unprecedented rate. Quite apart from the skiing, it's worth visiting just for the magnificent high-Andean scenery. You'll have to hoof it to the top of the slope, but from up here the massive icebound peak of Illimani seems close enough to touch, while La Paz and El Alto, far below in the Altiplano, look minuscule by comparison. You can also see the crystalline waters of Lago Titicaca to the west, with the mountains of Peru rising behind, and on clear days the volcanic cone of Sajama, Bolivia's highest mountain, is visible far across the Altiplano to the southwest. If you make the short climb up the peak of Mount Chacaltaya behind the ski refuge, the views open up still more. There can't be many places in the world where you can climb to such a high altitude with relatively little effort.
Chacaltaya is managed by the Club Andino Boliviano, Calle Mexico 1638, La Paz (at the end of a dingy corridor and up a flight of stairs) just up from Plaza Estudiante (Mon– Fri 9am– noon & 3–7pm; 
& 
02/2312875, 02/2250658 or 71260958 outside office hours, 
fecab@bolivia.com). They run a bus service up to the ski lodge every Saturday, and on weekdays if there are six or more passengers, leaving at 8.30am and returning in the afternoon ($6 per person). The journey takes about two hours, though you may have to walk the last few hundred metres if there has been a recent snowfall. The ski refuge has a small restaurant where you can get basic meals and hot drinks. The well-insulated refuge also offers overnight accommodation in a choice of dormitory or en-suite private room for $3–5 per person. If you're feeling energetic, optimistic and there's enough snow, the ski season runs roughly from November to March. The slope is open from 10am to 5pm and a lift pass costs $5. Note that because of the danger of altitude sickness you shouldn't come up here unless you've already adjusted to the altitude of La Paz. Conversely, if you're planning some high-altitude climbing, Chacaltaya is a good place to acclimatize. Take plenty of warm clothing as well as sunscreen and sunglasses.