Argentina Guide
The Northwest
Argentina's Northwest (El Noroeste Argentino, El NOA or just plain El Norte) is a region of infinite variety: ochre deserts where flocks of llamas roam, charcoal-grey lava flows devoid of any life form, blindingly white salt-flats and sooty-black volcanic cones, pristine limewashed colonial chapels set against striped mountainsides, lush citrus groves and emerald-green sugar plantations, impenetrable jungles populated by peccaries and parakeets. Today regarded as a marvellously secluded, far-flung corner of the country, this region is in fact the birthplace of Argentina – a Spanish colony thrived here when Buenos Aires was still an unsteady trading post on the Atlantic coast. One of these colonial cities, enticing and youthful Salta, is indisputably the region's tourism capital, with some of the country's best hotels, finest architecture and a well-earned reputation for hospitality.
Much of the Northwest region is accessible by public transport, but organized tours or, even better, exploring in a 4WD, are generally more rewarding ways of discovering the area, and at times are the only way of getting around. Should you choose to go it alone, take into account the mind-boggling distances involved, the challenging road, climatic conditions and the sheer remoteness of it all.
The best time to go is spring (Sept– Nov) or autumn (March and April), which, apart from busy Holy Week, happen to be the low season.
Highlights
1 Peñas of Salta Listen to the drums and guitars or haunting voices at the city's traditional music venues.
2 Cuesta del Obispo Spiral up (or down) a mind-boggling mountain road, zigzagging from sultry plains to the rarefied air of the Valles Calchaquíes.
3 Tilcara You'll find charming hotels, an abundance of arts and crafts, a massive colonial church and even a pre-Incan fortress in this village, the best base for visiting the Quebrada de Humahuaca.
4 Parque Nacional Calilegua Follow author Gerald Durrell's footsteps in the most accessible of the region's cloudforest reserves, looking out for tapirs, peccaries and all manner of birds.
5 Ruins of Shinkal Play archeologist as you explore arguably the best pre-Columbian site in Argentina.
6 Antofagasta de la Sierra Miles from anywhere, this altiplano village huddles among out-of-this world volcanic landscapes.
7 Fiambalá A bijou church, a state-of-the-art winery, two pre-Incan mummies and limpid hot springs – all in one remote hamlet.