Argentina Guide
The Litoral and the Gran Chaco
The defining feature of northeastern Argentina is water. Dominated by two of the continent's longest rivers, plus several of the country's other major waterways, it's a land of powerful cascades and gushing streams, blue-mirrored lagoons and rippling reservoirs, vast marshes and fertile wetlands. In addition, there are whole series of relaxing thermal springs and rowdier fishing-cum-hunting resorts. The riverine landscapes of the Litoral (meaning "Shore" or "Coastline") – a term generally used to refer to the four provinces of Entre Ríos, Corrientes, Misiones and Santa Fe – range from the caramel-coloured maze of the Paraná Delta, just north of Buenos Aires, via the gentle sandy banks of the Río Uruguay and the jungle-edged Río Iguazú to the wide translucent curves of the upper Río Paraná. To Argentines, the Litoral above all means two things: mate and chamamé. Litoraleños, as the inhabitants are called, are fanatical consumers of Argentina's national drink, and their passion for the tea-like infusion makes the rest of their countrymen look like amateurs. Chamamé, infectiously lively dance music popular throughout the region, is most reliably heard in the highly traditional province of Corrientes.
The Iguazú Falls, shared with Brazil, in the far north of Misiones Province, are the region's major attraction by a long chalk: Iguazú's claim to the title of the world's most spectacular waterfalls has few serious contenders.
Running a remote second, in terms of the number of visitors, San Ignacio Miní is one of the best-preserved ruins in the huge Jesuit Mission region, which spills from Paraguay across Argentina into southern Brazil – though some may find picking their way through nearby gothically overgrown Loreto and Santa Ana a more magical experience.
Bordering the Litoral and, to the northwest, Paraguay, the Gran Chaco is a vast, little-visited area of flatlands forming the central watershed of South America, lying partly in eastern Bolivia and southwestern Brazil, but predominantly in western Paraguay and the far north of Argentina. In Argentina, it encompasses the provinces of Formosa and (confusingly) Chaco, along with northern Santiago del Estero and Santa Fe provinces and the eastern lowland slice of Salta Province.
Highlights
1 Colón This picturesque riverside resort has it all: sandy beaches, hot springs, a golf course – even a winery.
2 Esteros del Iberá Glide in a boat across a mirror-like lagoon where capybaras splash, deer trampoline on spongy islets and thousands of birds fly overhead.
3 Estancia Santa Inés A splendid colonial-style mansion, near its own yerba mate plantation, offering hospitality, relaxation, delicious food – and a monkey colony.
4 San Ignacio Miní The best preserved of all the Jesuit settlements is set among impeccably mown lawns worthy of a cricket pitch.
5 Garganta del Diabloidh363337880_0355
Of the 250 waterfalls at Iguazú, the "Devil's Throat" is the most powerful, most dramatic – and wettest.
6 Fogón de los Arrieros Visited over the years by leading artists and artistes, Resistencia's top culture club offers tango, folk and poetry recitals.