Argentina Guide
Mendoza, San Juan and La Rioja
Argentina's midwestern provinces of Mendoza, San Juan and La Rioja stretch all the way from the chocolate-brown pampas of La Payunia, on the northern borders of Patagonia, to the remote highland steppes of the Reserva Las Vicuñas, on the edge of the altiplano, more than a thousand kilometres to the north. Extending across vast, thinly populated territories of bone-dry desert, they are dotted with vibrant oases of farmland and the region's famous vineyards: the sophisticated metropolis of Mendoza, one of Argentina's biggest cities, is the epicentre of the country's blossoming wine – and wine tourism – industry, while the two smaller provincial capitals, San Juan and La Rioja, continue to be quiet backwaters by comparison.
More than towns and cities, though, the area's dynamics are about its highly varied landscapes and wildlife. In the west of the provinces loom the world's loftiest peaks outside the Himalayas, culminating in the defiant Aconcagua, whose summit is only a shade under 7000 metres. Ranging from these snowy Andean heights to totally flat pampas in the east, from green, fertile valleys to barren volcanoes – the world's second highest cone, extinct Monte Pissis (6882m), is in the far north of La Rioja Province – the scenery also includes two of the country's most photographed national parks: the sheer red sandstone cliffs of Talampaya and the moonscapes of Ischigualasto. All this provides a backdrop for some of Argentina's best sporting opportunities – from skiing in exclusive Las Leñas, to rock-climbing, white-water rafting and even, if you're tempted by more demanding challenges, the ascent of Aconcagua or the Mercedario and Tupungato peaks.
European settlers have wrought changes to the environment, bringing the grape vine, the Lombardy poplar and all kinds of fruit trees with them, but the thousands of kilometres of irrigation channels that water the region existed long before Columbus "discovered" America. Pumas and vicuñas, condors and ñandús, plus hundreds of colourful bird species inhabit the thoroughly unspoilt wildernesses of the region, where some of the biggest known dinosaurs prowled millions of years ago. Countless flowering cactus and the dazzling yellow brea, a broom-like shrub, add colour to the browns and greys of the desert in the spring.
Highlights
1 Mendoza city Argentina's wine capital has a lot to offer, from top-class dining to a vibrant nightlife.
2 Bodega Salentein Who said the Dutch can't make wine? This "Wine Cathedral" is one of the most impressive wineries in South America.
3 Laguna Diamante This ultramarine lake with a perfectly symmetrical volcano for a backdrop is a great picnic spot.
4 Cañon del Atuel Exhilarating white-water rafting through a bucolic valley – how better to spend a summer's day?
5 La Payunia A secluded region of dark lava flows, rose-pink mountains, mysterious caves, curvaceous volcanoes and photogenic guanacos.
6 Ischigualasto The pride and joy of La Rioja and San Juan provinces – gigantic red cliffs and an eerie moonscape.
7 Climbing Mercedario If Aconcagua – one of the world's tallest peaks – is too crowded, then take your tent and ropes to Mercedario or another of the Andes' great challenges.
8 Flour mills of Jáchal Part of Argentina's industrial heritage, these fabulous mills are located near one of San Juan's many oasis towns.