USA Guide
The South
Getting around
The Memphis Area Transit Authority ( 
901/274-6282, 
www.matatransit.com ) operates a useful downtown trolley along Main Street and Riverside Drive, connecting the Pyramid and neighbouring Pinch District with Beale Street, the Civil Rights Museum, and the South Main Arts District. Another trolley heads along Madison Avenue to the medical centers midtown, but this is less useful for visitors. Fares are the same for both ($1, Mon– Fri 11am–1.30pm 50¢, 2-trip pass $1.50, day-pass $3.50, 3-day pass $8).
Horse-drawn carriage tours abound downtown – prices vary but you're looking at around $45/30min. Somewhat funkier, American Dream Safari ( 901/527-8870, www.americandreamsafari.com ) offers driving tours in a 1955 Cadillac. Ranging from a 3hr "greatest hits" jaunt ($40 per person, max 5 people) to a Sunday gospel and fried chicken outing ($75); they're pricey, but enjoyable. Another way to see the city is to float along the mighty Mississippi: sternwheelers leave from Riverside Drive at Monroe Avenue (April– Oct at least one daily, 2.30pm; more in summer and fewer Nov– March; 90min; $20; 901/527-2628, memphisriverboats.net ).
The hip folks at Shangri-La Projects – an off-shoot of the must-visit midtown record store – offer the Ultimate Rock'n'Roll Tour ( www.memphisrocktour.com ). This might take the form of an overview of all of Memphis's best music sites (1hr, $75 for up to two people; 3hr, $180) or be customized to your specific interests ($75/hr).