USA Guide
The South
Eating
1 
Arcade 540 S Main St 
901/526#x2013;5757 Said to be Memphis's oldest restaurant, this landmark diner – Elvis ate here! – in the South Main District was featured in Jim Jarmusch's movie Mystery Train, among many others. Come here for large Southern breakfasts, pizzas, and home cooking. Opening time: Daily 8am–3pm
2 Automatic Slim's Tonga Club 83 S Second St 901/525-7948 A Memphis institution in the heart of downtown, where you can eat Southwestern-tinged global cuisine – coconut-crusted fish served with jicama slaw and avocado, for example – in comfortably hip surroundings. Opening time: Mon-Sat
3 The Beauty Shop 966 S Cooper 901/272-7111 The witty retro fittings – glass brick partitions, mismatched crockery, 1940s hairdryer chairs – are perfectly in tune with Cooper-Young's funky vintage-store flair, while the eclectic fusion food (lunch, dinner and Sunday brunch) is tasty and satisfying.
4 Café Francisco 400 N Main St 901/578-8002 Hunker down on an overstuffed velvet sofa or at a rickety table in this cavernous, effortlessly boho and very relaxing coffeehouse that also serves good light meals. It's on the trolley route, near the Pyramid in the Pinch district. Free wi-fi.
5 Dejavu 936 Florida 901/942-1400 Chow down on Creole soul food and vegetarian fare at this healthy and affordable downtown spot, which used to be a small church. Entrees change daily with a seasonal focus. Opening time: Mon-Sat
6 Dish 948 S Cooper 901/276-0002 Right in the heart of the trendy Cooper-Young district, this minimalist restaurant serves tapas and sushi to a fashionable crowd. After 10pm live DJ's get the dancing started.
7 Four Way Grill 998 Mississippi Blvd 901/507-1519 Convenient for the Stax museum, this spotless little soul food joint – a favourite haunt of Martin Luther King Jr – dishes up unbeatable blue plate specials at unbelievably low prices. Opening time: Tues-Sun
8 Gus's Fried Chicken 310 S Front St 901/527-4877 This tiny downhome place near the South Main Arts District has caught the attention of the national press for its delicious, crackling-crisp and spicy chicken – don't miss it.
9 Interstate Bar-B-Que 2265 S Third St 901/775-2304, 
www.jimneelysinterstatebarbecue.com . Legendary barbecue restaurant, south of downtown (leave I–55 at exit 7) on the way to the Delta. Try the barbecue spaghetti. Closed Sun.
10 Java Cabana 2170 Young Ave 901/272-7210. Friendly alternative coffeehouse in the Cooper-Young district, with poetry readings and live music. Closed Mon.
11 McEwan's 122 Monroe Ave 901/527-7085 At the heart of downtown, four blocks north of Beale, McEwan's has the ambiance of a cosy neighbourhood bistro, serving inventive and delicious modern Southern cooking in a brick-walled room. The laid-back adjoining bar is also a local favourite.
12 Otherlands 641 S Cooper Ave 901/278-4994. Funky Midtown coffeehouse that's good for espresso, juices and fresh sandwiches. The laid-back crowd hangs out for hours in the warren of rooms, with their jumble of tatty sofas, armchairs, and even desks. Opening time: Until 8pm Mon– Sat, 7pm weekends
13 The Rendezvous General Washburn Alley, 52 S Second St 901/523-2746 www.hogsfly.com . Downtown Memphis's most famous pork barbecue joint, tucked away in a back alley, is colossal and very crowded. Enjoy the inexpensive meat feasts in a hectic atmosphere. Opening time: Tues– Sat