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USA Guide

The South

The Martin Luther King Jr National Historic Site

    Auburn Avenue stands as a monument to Atlanta's black history. During its heyday in the 1920s, "Sweet Auburn" was a prosperous, progressive area of black-owned businesses and jazz clubs, but it went into a decline with the Depression, from which, despite repeated attempts at revitalization, it has never truly recovered.

    Nonetheless, several blocks have been designated as the Martin Luther King Jr National Historic Site, in honor of Auburn's most cherished native son. This short stretch of road is the most visited attraction in all Georgia. Head first for the park service's visitor center, 450 Auburn Ave NE (daily: mid-June to mid-Aug 9am–6pm; mid-Aug to mid-June 9am–5pm; 404/331-5190, www.nps.gov/malu ). If you're looking for an account of the civil rights years, the museum at Memphis is much more comprehensive, but this provides a powerful summary.

    When you arrive at the visitor center, register for a free tour of King's Birth Home, a short walk east at 501 Auburn (same hours as visitor center). As only fifteen people can visit at a time, and school groups often visit en masse, you may have to settle instead for a "virtual tour," utilizing the computers at the visitor center. The home itself is a 14-room Queen Anne-style shotgun house, restored to its prosperous 1930s appearance. Home to King until he was twelve, it remained in his family until 1971.

    Across from the visitor center, the King Center, 449 Auburn Ave NE (daily 9am–5pm; www.thekingcenter.org ), is privately run by King's family. Chiefly an educational and research facility, it also features displays of artifacts such as King's Bibles. King's mortal remains, guarded by an eternal flame, are held in a plain marble tomb, inscribed with the words "Free at last, free at last, thank God Almighty I'm free at last," which stands in the shallow Reflecting Pool outside.

    Next door, the Ebenezer Baptist Church, where King's funeral took place – and where his mother was assassinated while playing the organ in 1974 – has been converted into another museum ( www.nps.gov/malu ), staffed by volunteers eager to share their memories. It's now only used for special occasions, while its congregation has decamped to a much larger church alongside the visitor center.