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USA Guide

The Great Plains

Oklahoma City

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Oklahoma City was created in a matter of hours on April 22, 1889, after a single gunshot signaled the opening of the land to white settlement. What was barren prairie at dawn was by nightfall a city of ten thousand. In 1911 the capital was moved here from nearby Guthrie, and in 1928 oil was discovered. Sitting on one of the nation's largest oilfields, the city was brought up short by the slump in the 1980s, though it remains the largest stocker and feeder cattle market in the world. The economy came alive again in the 1990s, aided by tourism development and an inflated sales tax that funded redevelopment in run-down neighbourhoods.

The devastating bombing of the Alfred P. Murrah Federal Building on April 19, 1995, which killed 168 people, nineteen of them children, literally tore the heart out of the city; the massive community rescue effort has since helped Oklahoma City regain some of its self-confidence, though it will be a while before the city is fully healed. In June 2001, ex-military recluse Timothy McVeigh was executed for the crime; his accomplice, Terry Nichols, is serving a life sentence in jail for his part. A permanent landscaped memorial has been constructed at the former site of the Murrah building, while the Journal Record Building next door has been turned into the Museum and Institute for the Prevention of Terrorism.

Storm chasing

With such unpredictable weather, it's no surprise that storm chasing has become big business in Oklahoma and surrounding "tornado alley" states. If you're either very foolhardy or very brave, you can spend a week or two driving around the prairies chasing tornadoes and some wicked, wild weather. Companies such as Storm Chasing Adventure Tours ( 303/888-8629, www.stormchasing.com ) and Cloud 9 ( 405/323-1145, cloud9tours.com ) claim that their operations are perfectly safe and all but guarantee you an up-close and personal encounter with a tornado. Tours run from one to two weeks, cover many Midwestern states and will set you back anywhere from $2500 to $3000.