USA Guide
Texas
The Menil galleries
Five miles southwest of downtown, the quiet oak-lined streets of the Museum District are enjoyable to explore on foot, a rarity for Houston. There are two main concentrations of exhibition spaces, with one entire complex dominated by the collections of oil millionaires John and Dominique de Menil. At 1515 Sul Ross St, a magnificent purpose-built gallery, designed by Renzo Piano, houses the private Menil Collection (Wed– Sun 11am–7pm; free; www.menil.org). Displayed in spacious naturally lit white-walled rooms, the superb works range from Paleolithic carvings to Surrealist paintings. Artists with rooms to themselves include Picasso, Max Ernst, and René Magritte. There's also a fine array of African art. A block east, the minimalist Ecumenical Rothko Chapel, 3900 Yupon St (daily 10am–6pm; www.rothkochapel.org), contains 14 somber paintings commissioned by the Menils from Mark Rothko shortly before his death. The artist, who worked with architect Philip Johnson in designing the chapel, considered these to be his most important works, and their power in this tranquil space is undeniable.