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New York Guide

Harlem and north

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The most famous African-American community in America (and the birthplace of modern black culture), Harlem languished as a low-rent, high-crime neighborhood for much of the mid-twentieth century, justly earning a reputation as a place of racial tension and urban decay. Things have begun to look up recently, and it is far less dangerous than it once was – indeed, some pockets are among the more up-and-coming areas in Manhattan. Many local observers worry, however, that the influx of investment may come at too high a price, diluting or wiping out the district's unique Afro-American spirit and history.

Harlem's main thoroughfares – 125th Street, Adam Clayton Powell, Jr Boulevard, and Lenox Avenue – should be well traveled, and you should have few worries about running into trouble. Farther uptown is Hamilton Heights, a largely residential spot pepped up by an old Federal-style historic mansion and the campus of the City College of New York. Continuing north from there, you'll hit the Dominican stronghold of Washington Heights, a patchy place with few visitor attractions and one area where it pays to take care at night. The northernmost tip of the island, known as Inwood, is home to The Cloisters, a museum as mock medieval monastery that holds the Metropolitan Museum's superlative collection of medieval art. It's easily the most visited site in the city north of Central Park.