USA Guide
Louisiana
Drinking
1 Lafitte's Blacksmith Shop 941 Bourbon St 
504/523-0066 Lively, tumbledown bar that's a favourite for tourists. A front for pirate Lafitte's plottings, the building's practically unchanged since the 1700s – despite its exterior sprucing – and retains its beamed ceilings and blackened brick fireplace.
2 Molly's at the Market 1107 Decatur St 504/525-5169 Once famed for being a haunt of politicos and media stars, Molly's is a French Quarter institution – remaining open through Katrina, the flooding, and subsequent evacuation – and pulls a rowdy crowd of locals, tourists, off-duty waitstaff, and grungy street punks.
3 
Napoleon House 500 Chartres St 504/524-9752 If you visit just one bar in New Orleans, let this ravishing old place be it. Flickering with gaslight, its time-stained walls crammed with ancient oil paintings and on a warm night its tropical courtyard is one of the best places to be.
4 Port of Call 838 Esplanade Ave 504/523-0120 Strung with tatty nets and life rings, this unpretentious drinking hole is haunted by a noisy crowd who put the world to rights around the large wooden bar or the small tables. Great burgers, too, served with mushrooms or cheese and a buttery baked potato.
5 Pravda 1113 Decatur St 504/525-1818 Though the postmodern, czarist-cum-Social-Realist decor tries a little too hard, with its dim red lighting and comfy banquettes this relaxed cocktail bar makes a nice alternative to the down-and-dirty Decatur bars, especially if you want a quiet drink. They serve quality absinthe, prepared the traditional way, for $20, and have a pretty courtyard out back.
6 Ernie K-Doe's Mother-in-Law Lounge 1500 N Claiborne Ave 504/947-1078 
www.kdoe.com Since the untimely death of local R&B legend Ernie in 2001, his formidable wife Antoinette has kept their Tremé lounge open as something of a shrine to the self-styled "Emperor of the Universe" – complete with an "Ernie in Heaven" mannequin holding court. Hop in a cab and join the combination of arty hipsters and unimpressed locals that make this place unique.
7 R-Bar 1431 Royal St 504/948-7499 Hip Faubourg Marigny bar with funky thrift-store decor and a pool table frequented by some of the coolest sharks in town. It's popular with a youngish set. On Monday night you can pay $10 for a haircut and a hand-steadying shot.
8 Snake and Jake's 7601 Oak St 504/861-2802 Dim, debauched and derelict, strewn with ancient Christmas tree lights, a quintessential New Orleans dive bar that is beloved of uptown students and locals. Go very late.