USA Guide
California
The Napa Valley
Thirty miles of gently landscaped hillsides, the Napa Valley looks more like southern France than a near-neighbour of the Pacific Ocean. The one anomaly is the town of Napa itself, a sprawling, ungainly city of 60,000 best avoided in favor of the wineries and small towns on Hwy-29.
Of the large wineries at the valley's southern end, Robert Mondavi, at 7801 St Helena Hwy in Oakville (daily 10am–5pm; 
1-888/766-6328, 
www.mondavi.com ) offers the most informative and least sales-driven tours ($25) and tastings (from $15).
Up the valley past the pretty village of St Helena, Beringer Vineyards, at 2000 Main St (daily 10am–5pm; tasting $5, tours $10–35; 707/963-7115, www.beringer.com ), is modeled on a German Gothic mansion and has graced the cover of many a wine magazine.
Homey Calistoga, at the northern tip of the valley, is well known for its mud baths, whirlpools, and mineral water, though its wineries are just as appealing. South of town, Clos Pegase, 1060 Dunaweal Lane (daily 10.30am–5pm; $5; 707/942-4981, www.clospegase.com ), is a flamboyant, high-profile winery that draws a link between fine wine and fine art, with an excellent sculpture garden. The Chateau Montelena, 1429 Tubbs Lane (daily 9.30am–4pm; $15–25; 707/942-5105, www.montelena.com ), just north of town, is one of the valley's oldest and smallest wineries, with an impressive medieval facade and a reputation for first-class chardonnays.