USA Guide
California
Sonoma Valley
On looks alone, the crescent-shaped Sonoma Valley beats Napa hands down. This altogether more rustic valley curves between oak-covered mountain ranges from the Spanish Colonial town of Sonoma to Glen Ellen, a few miles north along Hwy-12. It's far smaller than Napa, and many of its wineries are informal, family-run businesses, where a charge for tasting is still frowned upon and visitors are few.
Many of Sonoma's wineries are concentrated a mile east of Sonoma, within walking distance, and include the grand old Buena Vista Carneros, 18000 Old Winery Rd (daily 10am–5pm; tasting $5–10; various tours free– $50; 
1-800/678-8504, 
www.buenavistacarneros.com ), which has champagne cellars, tunnels of oak caskets, and a high-ceilinged tasting room. A ten-minute drive further north, in charming Glen Ellen, is the Benziger Family Winery, 1883 London Ranch Rd (daily 10am–5pm; tasting $10–15; 1-888/490-2739, www.benziger.com ). A self-guided tour explains how wine grapes are cultivated and flavoured, and nine times daily a tram tour ($15) takes you around the vineyard along the side of Mount Sonoma.