Mexico Guide
Veracruz
Córdoba
Second-class buses traverse the mountain road from Fortín to Xalapa fairly regularly, but a short local bus ride covers the 7km to CÓRDOBA, just 129km from Veracruz and the coast. At the centre of the area's coffee trade, this is a busy modern town built around an attractive colonial centre. Founded in 1618 by thirty Spanish families – and so also known as the "City of the Thirty Knights" – its main claim to fame is that in 1821, the last Spanish viceroy, Juan O'Donoju, signed the Treaty of Córdoba with General Iturbide here, formally giving Mexico independence. The signing took place in the Palacio de los Condes de Zevallos, which was completed in 1687 and known as the Portal de Zevallos, on the northern edge of the zócalo (look for the faded sign for Hotel Zevallos next to the Parroquia café). The Portal is now filled with handicraft shops and cafés, where you can sit and sample Córdoban coffee or julep, a blend of various spirits and mint leaves (see "Nightlife and entertainment"). Before you settle down to try one, though, check out the twin-towered Catedral de la Inmaculada Concepción, one of the most richly adorned religious buildings in the state – started in 1621, it contains a revered image of the Virgin Mary to the right of the altar.
Central Córdoba is easy to navigate: Avenida 1 and Calle 1 intersect at the Palacio Municipal on the zócalo: avenidas run east– west, with even numbers north of the zócalo and odd numbers south. Calles run north– south, with even numbers west of the zócalo and odd numbers east. The bus terminal (for first- and second-class services) is 3km south of the centre at Privada 4 between calles 39 and 41, a short taxi ride to the zócalo (buy a ticket first). Alternatively, take one of the buses marked "Centro".
The pricier hotels, such as the modern Bello, on Avenida 2 at Calle 5 ( 
271/712-8122; Price: M$500-750), are around the zócalo. Closest to all the action are the Virreynal, by the side of the cathedral on Avenida 1 at Calle 5 ( 271/712-2377; Price: M$250-350), which also has a decent restaurant, and the quieter and marginally more expensive 
Mansur, in the same block of Avenida 1 ( 271/712-6000, 
www.hotelmansur.com.mx ; Price: M$350-500). Here you'll find fantastic balconied rooms overlooking the cathedral in an old building full of character. There are also plenty of cheap places scattered about, especially along Avenida 2. The best of the budget hotels is the pleasant Iberia, a fifteen-minute walk along Avenida 2 at no. 919 ( 271/712-1301; Price: M$200-250), with both a/c rooms and slightly cheaper ones with fan. The best places to eat are also around the zócalo: El Cordobés ( 271/712-0798), opposite the cathedral, and the Parroquia, opposite the Palacio Municipal (breakfasts from M$40, meat dishes under M$100), have varied menus with huge comidas, as does cheaper El Patio de la Abuela, on Calle 1 between avenidas 2 and 4 ( 271/712-0606), an ideal place for lunch (sets from M$30). There are some good seafood restaurants along Calle 15 that serve fresh fish in a variety of sauces, as well as some more unusual dishes such as black pepper casserole. For a break from Mexican food, try the sushi and other Japanese specialities at comfortable Mikasa, at no. 212-A on Avenida 5 ( 271/712-7613), or the excellent crepes at Los 30's on Avenida 9 between calles 20 and 22 ( 271/712-3379).