Mexico Guide
The Yucatán
Mérida
Even if practically every road didn't lead to MÉRIDA, it would still be an inevitable stop. Nicknamed "La Ciudad Blanca" after its white limestone buildings (now covered in peeling layers of gem-coloured paint), the capital of Yucatán state is in every sense the leading city of the peninsula, with a calm, small-town geniality despite its population of nearly one million. It draws thousands of visitors, both Mexican and foreign, and has seen a rash of expat investment since 2000, leading some to speculate that it may succeed San Miguel Allende as the country's prime artsy expat haven. But even as the buzz increases, the city retains its grace and manners: every street in the centre boasts a well-maintained colonial church or museum, and locals still ride in little horse-drawn taxis, which gather by the plaza in the evenings. Not only can you live well here, but you can also find good beaches nearby, and it's a great base for excursions to the Maya sites of Uxmal and Chichén Itzá.
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