Mexico Guide
The Yucatán
Eating
1 100% Natural Sunyaxchén 26, at Yaxchilán As the name implies, the menu at this largely vegetarian restaurant is decidedly wholesome, with fruit salads and veggie burgers, as well as fresh Mexican dishes. Breakfasts are especially nice, with inventive combos like poached eggs over nopal leaves with spinach and an almond cream sauce.
2 Los Almendros Tulum 66 The original restaurant in the town of Ticul is credited with inventing the emblematic Yucatecan pork dish poc-chuc. This branch is somewhat stiff, with bright lights and white tablecloths, but the food is well prepared and reasonably priced. Nightly specials on Mon, Wed, Thurs and Sun.
3 El Café Nader 5, behind the city hall A buzzing terrace frequented by Cancún's journalists. Good coffee and pan dulce for breakfast, plus a simple, reasonably priced lunch and dinner menu with basics like steak and fries and enchiladas de mole.
4 El D'Pa Alcatraces, at the southwest corner of Parque de las Palapas. Typical French crepes, both sweet and savoury, and decent wine by the glass. Choose a sidewalk table or sit inside among plush furniture. Closed Mon.
5 La Habichuela Margaritas 25, in front of the park 
998/884-3158, 
www.lahabichuela.com Long-established, elegant restaurant set in a walled garden. The featured cocobichuela (half a coconut filled with lobster and shrimp in a curry sauce; M$325), draws raves, but less expensive Caribbean concoctions are equally good. The sommelier is attentive and enthusiastic. Neighbouring Labná, under the same ownership, applies similar elegant flair to Yucatecan specialities, with somewhat lower prices.
6 
Los Huaraches de Alcatraces Alcatraces 31 (or enter on Claveles). This sparkling cafeteria-style restaurant serves up hearty breakfasts and hot lunches as well as lighter snacks like huaraches and quesadillas. Everything's very fresh, and the staff are happy to explain the various dishes. Opening time: Closed Mon
7 El Pabilo Yaxchilán 31, in the Xbalamqué hotel Mellow literary coffee shop (a "cafébrería") with very good cappuccino, espresso and snacks. Live guitar music or readings at night.
8 Perico's Yaxchilán 61 998/884-3152, www.pericos.com.mx A phantasmagoria of strolling magicians, crooning mariachis and stilt-walkers – so over the top that even sceptics may be swayed, and the food (tasty steaks and enchiladas; M$140–250) holds its own.
9 El Rincón Yucateco Uxmal 24 In business since 1981, this stalwart specializes in simple cuisine such as panuchos and brazo de reina, a hearty tamale-like dish, all washed down with cold beers. Opening time: Closed Sun
10 Ty-Coz Tulum behind Comercial Mexicana A sandwich shop where French and Mexican tastes mix: the warm ham-and-cheese baguette económico is slathered with garlic-herb mayo and studded with pickled jalapenos. Coffee and croissants for breakfast. Opening time: Open till 10pm Also branches in the zona hotelera at Paseo Kukulcán Km 7 and Km 7.5.
11 100% Natural Paseo Kukulcán Km 8.5 A branch of the veggie-friendly café that's also downtown, in a strip mall just west of Plaza Caracol. There's also a branch in the Plaza Kukulcán mall at Km 13.
12 La Casa de las Margaritas in La Isla Shopping Village, Paseo Kukulcán Km 12 Upscale Mexican restaurant with decent regional specialities such as Oaxacan tlayudas (chewy corn cakes with assorted toppings; M$90) that isn't quite as over-decorated as some. The live music, a wider variety than the usual blaring mariachi, doesn't dominate the room. The Sun buffet (noon–5pm; M$140) is a good deal.
13 Casa Rolandi in Plaza Caracol, Paseo Kukulcán Km 8.5 998/831-1817 www.rolandi.com This Cancún fixture serves northern Italian specialities, many done in a wood-burning oven, in a candle-lit, white-tablecloth setting. Expensive (mains M$125–530), but suitable for a romantic splurge.
14 Checándole Plaza El Parián, Paseo Kukulcán Km 8.7. One of the few spots in the hotel zone for satisfying, inexpensive local grub like tacos al pastor. Opening time: Daily 2–8pm
15 Dolcemente Pompeii Pez Volador 7, near Paseo Kukulcán Km 5 998/849-4006. A rare casual restaurant catering to Mexican families and hotel-zone residents with mammoth portions of hearty Italian food, from hand-made pastas (M$90 and up) to gelato. Hard to find because it's not affiliated with a mall or hotel: turn north in front of the giant Mexican flag. Opening time: Closed Mon
16 El Fish Fritanga Paseo Kukulcán Km 12.5 Hidden behind a Domino's, this lagoon-side seafood specialist is inexpensive, laid-back and frequented by residents – there's even a bit of beach, so you can stick your feet in the sand while you eat.
17 Río Nizuc off Paseo Kukulcán near Km 22 Ceviche and tikin-xic fish grilled in banana leaves are popular with locals at this casual place tucked among the mangroves near the opening to the lagoon. Opening time: Daily 11am–5pm